


MARKETINi 
HOUSE WDRK MAE Ja: 

m 

S.AGNES DONHAM" 



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Class l.A_l_^__ 

Book Jli. 



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COFflRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



MARKETING 

AND 

HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



MARKETING 

AND 

HOUSEWOEK MANUAL 



/ 



BY 

S. AGNES pONHAM 

INSTRtrCTOR IN HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT 
GARLAND SCHOOL OF HOME MAKING, BOSTON 




BOSTON 

LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY 

1917 



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.13 7 
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Copyright, 1917, 
By Little, Brown, and Company. y 



All rights reserved 
Published, November, 191 7 



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26 i9i7 



TYPOGRAPHY BY THK PLIMPTON PRESS, NORWOOD, MASS., U.S.A. 
PRINTED BY S. J. PAEKHILL & CO., BOSTON, MASS., U.S.A. 



)|,A477731 '^' 






CONTENTS 
PART I 

CHAPTER PAGE 

Introduction 2 

I. General Rules for Marketing . . 3 

II. Marketing Charts 9 

III. Menu Making 80 

IV. Menu and Order Sheets .... 97 
V. How to Select Foods — 1. What the 

Body Needs 100 

VI. Food Inventory 107 

PART II 

Introduction 114 

VII. The Cellar and Laundry . . . . 115 

VIII. The Kitchen and Kitchen Pantry . 127 
IX. The Dining Room, Pantry and Dish 

Washing 146 

X. The Dining Room and Table Service 152 

XI. The Living Room 160 

XII. The Chambers and Bed Making . . 167 

XIII. The Bathroom and Storage Closets . 174 

XIV. General Cleaning — Sweeping, Dusting 181 
XV. To Open and Close a House . . . 199 

XVI. House Inspections 205 

XVII. Small Repairs, Plumbing Troubles . 208 
XVIII. The Reading of Gas and Electric 

Meters 214 

XIX. Program of Work 218 

XX. Household Pests 226 

Index 237 



PART I 
MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



INTRODUCTION 

The subject matter of this manual is the result 
of twenty years' study and experience in teaching. 
Each year I have seen reason to change it and have 
been glad it was not in permanent form. It has now 
reached the place where it seems to meet a definite 
need in schools, and promises to the young housewife 
material which she will find useful and which will 
save much time over the slow process of learning by 
experience. 

There are many books on the market which give 
help to the home maker, and I should hesitate to add 
to the number if this were in the usual form, but its 
brevity and the elimination of all except almost cata- 
logue detail make it seem probable that the busy 
or inexperienced may find time and inclination to go 
to it for help and direction. 

I have purposely kept to the short, exact statement 
that there need be no superfluous words to bewilder 
the inexperienced and irritate the hurried. 

For much of the inspiration which makes the book 
possible, I am indebted to Mrs. Margaret J. Stannard 
and my co-workers at the Garland School of Home 
Making. To Miss Louisa A. Nicholas, Miss S. Maria 
Elliott, Mrs. Maria W. HiUiard, Mr. Edward E. 
Thurston, Mr. George Hutchinson, and a large number 
of others I am grateful for instruction and criticism. 
To Mrs. Harriet Taber Richardson is due acknowledg- 
ment for the idea from which I worked out the order 
sheets. To my mother and father belong the credit 
for the practical ability and desire to be useful which 
led me into this great work of Home Economics. 
.2 



MAEKETING 

AND 

HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

CHAPTER I 
GENERAL RULES FOR MARKETING 

A MARKET is a place where commodities are bought 
and sold. 

Early food markets were possibly the outgrowth of 
great religious festivals. People gathered from a dis- 
tance for several days' festivities and brought food for 
their own use and exchanged the excess for foods strange 
to them which people from other parts of the country 
brought. 

Gradually they came to provide definitely for such 
exchange, and in time such gatherings became es- 
tablished markets for the barter of .any produce not. 
necessary to the producer. 

Now, food markets are the centers of exchange not 
only between producers of foodstuffs, but between 
producers, or their agents, and consumers, who use 
money instead of similar produce as a medium of 
exchange, and the food frequently passes through the 
hands of several middlemen before coming into the 
home of the consumer. 

It is well to make use of every assistance in market- 
ing. 



4 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Investigate the various methods — private dealers, 
cooperative buying, cooperative markets, municipal 
markets, pubhc markets, purchasing from producer 
by cart, express, or parcel post. 

Make use of all the educational material you can 
find: 

Federal, State, and City bulletins, 
Board of Health cards, 
Agricultural College bulletins, 
Magazine articles. 
Conference with neighbors. 

Consider which methods are best suited to your 
needs and follow them until convinced that others are 
better. One gains httle by trying first one way and 
then another without fairly testing each. 

The corner storekeeper must ask higher prices than 
the firm with larger business and more extensive plant. 
We demand much from the small store in our emer- 
gencies and usually give the bulk of our trade to the 
large dealer. 

Public markets often save much, but we must con- 
sider that we pay carfare and use extra time to reach 
them. The reduction in price is frequently apparent 
rather than real. We forget the cost of the gasolene 
which we used in reaching the larger market. 

Peddlers with regular routes may usually be depended 
upon. 

The huckster knows you won't remember his face 
when he appears again and is less likely to give honest 
weight and quality. 

Do not expect to learn to market well by telephoning 
to your favorite clerk or reading books on the subject. 
You can learn only by constant use of every rule you 
know and by repeated visits to market and practice 
in selection. 



GENERAL RULES FOR MARKETING 5 

Build upon your own failures and successes; but let 
the knowledge of others help you do so. 

General Rules for Marketing 
Choose your market carefully. 

Sanitation: 
Consider the sanitary arrangements of the store, the 
storage spaces, and the yard; position of toilets, 
presence of animals, the covering of bins, the 
standard of cleanliness all through the store. 
Watch to see that the clerks employed have clean 
appearance and clean habits and methods of 
handhng the goods. 
Quality: 
Do not demand fancy quahty unless paying for it. 
See that you receive the quality for which you are 
wilhng to pay. 
Weight: 
Choose a dealer who gives accurate weight and 
measure. 
Prices: 

Should be reasonable for the quality you demand. 
Treatment of Customers: 
Should be courteous and considerate. 

Be considerate in your demands for service. 

Require no unnecessary time from the clerks. 

Do not ask for repeated deliveries; make one order 

do. 
Allow time for delivery. 
Do not ask for constant favors. 
Insist upon the weight and quality for which you 

are paying. 
Do not be impossible to suit. 
Extra quahty and cleanhness are costly. 



6 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

If you demand good sanitation and fancy brands, 

you must pay for them. 
Bills should be paid promptly. 
It is your privilege to choose the market where you 

will buy. 
It is your duty to pay for the service you de- 
mand. 

Methods of Marketing 

1. Plan your meals for a week ahead if possible. 

2. Make a list of supplies required in the menus. 

3. Consult the cook or pantry to see if any of these 

supplies must be replenished within a week. 

4. Make a list of all staples required, with amounts 

and brands desired. 

5. Make a list of all perishable supplies for each day, 

with item as to the time the order should be 
given. 

6. Order the staple articles which will insure your 

supply for a week at least, longer if you have 
storage. 

7. Go to market and choose the perishable articles, 

for two or three days ahead if necessary. Meat 
may be held and sent as required. 

8. Choose perishable articles yourself. It is of no 

use to go to market simply to read an order to 
the clerk. 

9. Visit the market often enough to keep in touch 

with the seasons, prices, qualities, and choice. 
We forget what we do not see. 
10. Change your plan if the conditions or contents of 
the market make it desirable or necessary. 

Rules for Buying 

1. Plan what you will buy. 

2. Ask the price before ordering. 



GENERAL RULES FOR MARKETING 7 

3. See if you can save by buying in quantity. 

4. If the price is high, try to discover cheaper substi- 

tutes. 

(a) If prices are higher than you can afford 
to pay, substitute a cheaper food of the same 
food value. 

(6) Prices of food are usually regulated by supply 
or demand. Boycotts do Httle or no good. 
In a city near Boston it cost 38 cents a 
dozen to raise and market eggs. Eggs be- 
low 40 cents a dozen were thus sold without 
profit. The farm produced its largest sup- 
ply when eggs were selling below 36 cents a 
dozen. The winter prices hardly made up 
the loss. It was the supply and not the 
demand which regulated the price. 
Investigate before you condemn. 
Buy any food as long as you can afford it; 
substitute when the price is prohibitive. 

5. When buying perishable articles, do not order more 

than can be used to advantage. Study actual 
needs. 

6. Know the difference between real and apparent 

cost. Example: Rump steak at 48 cents a pound 
is nearly all edible, and the real and apparent 
costs are practically alike; while sirloin steak 
at 38 cents a pound has much waste, and the 
cost of the portion actually used may reach 
74 cents a pound. The real cost is thus 36 cents 
more than the apparent cost. 

7. Order a definite quantity — by weight or measure; 

not ten or fifteen cents' worth. 

8. Check the dealer's weight by watching or by 

reweighing. See that the scales are at zero 
before food is placed on them. 



8 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

9. Do not pay for the weight of wrapping paper, 
etc. Have trimmings sent home and use them. 

10. Buy when prices are reasonable. Nearly every 

food material has a seasonal rise and fall in price. 
Watch for drops in prices and take advantage 
of them if possible. 

11. Do not buy anything simply because it is cheap. 

Know that you need to use it. 

12. Buy by brand name if you have found a brand of 

satisfactory quality. Experiment with different 
products until you have found the one you 
prefer; then order that brand until you see 
reason to change for something better suited 
to your need. 

13. In general, do not buy below the market price 

unless you know the reason for the reduction. 
There is always a reason. If flour is selling at 
$10 a barrel and a dealer offers it for $8, it is 
probably a poor or damaged flour. 



CHAPTER II 
MARKETING CHARTS 

These charts are designed to assist the housewife 
or student in the choice, purchase, and care of food- 
stuffs. It has been, manifestly impossible to include 
every foodstuff known to each locality in the country, 
but effort has been made to chart those which are 
universal. 

The cuts of meat are the Boston cuts, but names by 
which they are known in other cities are given. The 
greatest difference is in the cutting of the Boston 
rump, called in New York the sirloin, and there cut in 
large shces through the bone. The New York rump 
is like the poorer part of the Boston rump, which is 
there called the face. To give prices for meat seems 
inadvisable. 

The vegetable charts are given with a range of prices 
at the beginning and height of a normal season. Prices 
for hothouse-grown or out-of-season vegetables are 
also indicated, that the housekeeper may be able to 
judge whether it is best to purchase or wait for the 
home market. 

The points of choice and the care in the house need 
no explanation, but a word should be said in regard to 
the amount to purchase. Abnormal appetites, families 
with large capacities for any one food, have not been 
considered. The aim has been to give average amounts 
which would satisfy the normal family. Experience 
will soon show whether the amount is right for indi- 
viduals to serve or to purchase. 



10 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

GENERAL RULES FOR THE SELECTION OF MEAT 

Read Farmers' Bulletin No. 391, "Economical Use of 
Meat in the Home." 

Study charts. 

Study cuts of meat in the markets. 

Learn the names your dealer uses. 

Go through a market picking out all the pieces of one 
particular cut; when sure of that, learn.another in the 
same way. 

When buying, ask the clerk to show you all of the 
cuts possible for the use you have in mind; then 
choose the one which seems best suited to your pur- 
pose and purse. 

Try different cuts until you have learned which gives 
you the most satisfaction. Consider real and ap- 
parent cost, waste, flavor, and size of cut. Having 
decided which cuts you prefer for each purpose, order 
by name and see the meat cut and weighed if pos- 
sible. Have the trimmings sent home for use. 

The cuts of meat which have thin connective tissue 
holding the fibers are the tender cuts; heavy con- 
nective tissue makes tough meat. 

When there are flecks of fat all through the fibers of 
meat, it is more tender and has more flavor than 
meat without fat. 

When meat has hung for some time after slaughter, 
it is more tender than if eaten at once. 

Meat of any kind should have a fresh odor. 

Experience will teach one the odor of stale meat. 

Select meat which has no dark, dry edges or spots. 

Remember that tough cuts may be cooked slowly and 
become tender. 

Learn which cuts have the least waste and know 
whether you are paying for waste or edible meat. 



MARKETING CHARTS 11 

If bone and fat are worth only seven cents a pound, 
don't pay 38 cents for them unless you vCan afford 
to do so; and if you do pay it, realize that you are 
purchasing for flavor and tenderness rather than food 
value. 



12 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



Beef 

Points of Choice: 

Firm, fine-grain muscle. 
Bright red color when exposed to the air. 
The tender cuts well mottled with fat. 
Moist, juicy surface when exposed to the air. 
Edge fat, firm, thick, and straw colored. 
Suet dry, crumbly, and white. 
Poor beef has coarse, flabby meat, dark color, with 
dark oily fat. 




Cut known as First Cut of Prime Ribs, 
English Roast, Two Rib Cut. 




Cut known as Tip of Sirloin, Short Steak, 

Club Steak, Delmonico Steak, Second Cut 

of Sirloin. 



MARKETING CHARTS 



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MARKETING CHARTS 



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Cut known as Porterhouse, T-bone Steak, Large 
Sirloin, Body Sirloin. When cut larger, known 
as Porterhouse Roast, Body Roast, Sirloin Roast 




Cuts known as Round. Top and Bottom 
cut Through. 



MARKETING CHARTS 



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18 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



Lamb and Mutton 

Pmnts of Choice: 
Deep pink flesh. 
Firm, fine-grain fibers. 
Kidney fat hard and white. 
Edge fat thin, with faint pink tinge. 
The outside skin should tear off. 
The flavor of mutton is less strong if the skin and 

excess fat are removed. 
Never cook the caul in which a leg of mutton is 

wrapped. 
Mutton is more mature, contains more nourishment, 

is more easily digested, and has less delicate flavor 

than lamb. 
Lamb bones are slightly streaked with red. 
The leg joint of lamb is serrated. 
The leg joint of mutton is smooth and round. 



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Leg of Lamb or Mutton. (Reproduced on a much 
smaller scale than other Illustrations) . 




Cut known as Rib Chop. (This 
may be Frenched). 



MARKETING CHARTS 



19 



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6-8 lbs. 

May be cut short or 
long 


For crown roast 12-24 

chops 
4 rib chops to 1 lb. 
3 kidney chops to 1 lb. 




5-9 lbs. 
Back 4-6 lbs. 
Lower 2-3 lbs. 


1 


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Roasting 
BroiUng 
Pan frying 


Stew and soup 
Buy only as it comes 
on other cuts 


Boned, rolled (stuffed), 

and roasted 
Casserole 
Stew 
Soup 
Fricassee 


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SoUd meat 
Little waste 
Fine flavor and tex- 
ture 


Tender, well-flavored 

' meat, with much 

bone, fat and flank 


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Good flavor 
Inexpensive. 
Thin layers of meat, 
fat, and bone 


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The back between 
the fore quarter 
and leg 


1 

1 

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Fore leg and neck 


1 


Saddle 
(two hind quarters 

with loins) 
1. Leg 


2. Saddle or Rack 
(a) Loin or crown 

roast 
(Jb) Kidney and rib 
chops 


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Fore quarter 

1. Shoulder 

2. Breast 

3. Neck 

4. Fore leg 



20 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



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Cut known as Loin Chop, Kidney 

Chop, and English Chop (when boned 

and rolled) . 




Cut known as Fore Quarter, Breast and 
Back of Lamb or Mutton. 



MARKETING CHARTS 21 



Veal 

Points of Choice: 
Faint pink flesh. 
Little or no edge fat. 
Other fat pinkish in tint. 
Milk-fed veal best. 

Veal should at be least four weeks old before slaughter. 
"Bob" veal (too young) is soft, has poor flavor, and 

has been considered dangerous food. Its sale is 

prohibited by law in many States. 



22 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



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24 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



Pork 

Points of Choice: 

Firm, white flesh, with faint, pink tinge. 
Firm, clear, white fat. 

Diseased pork has a dull appearance, with small 
yellowish lumps through the meat and fat. 



MARKETING CHARTS 



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MARKETING CHARTS 27 



General Rules for Purchase of Poultry 

The housewife should demand preparation of poultry 
before killing: 

1. Fattening by special feeding. 

2. Starving just before killing to empty the crop. 

3. Dry-picked, giving a smooth skin. Scalding 

brings out dry patches which injure the appear- 
ance. 

4. Well bled. 

5. Cooled quickly. 

6. Not drawn; poultry keeps better, and if drawn 

in the home, disease of the liver and intestines 
may be detected. 

7. Head left on: choose a red comb, clear eyes, no 

sores. 

8. Feet left on: chickens have soft spurs; roosters 

have hard spurs. 
Choose: 

Round full breast, streaks of fat under skin of breast. 

White skin (milk-fed), short legs, soft yellow feet. 
Avoid: 

Thick layers of fat near the vent. 

Full crop. 

Blue meat. 



28 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



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o . 

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to <B -f^ o3 



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MARKETING CHARTS 



29 






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30 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



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32 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Fish 

General Rules for Purchase: 

1. Plan to use fish often. Buy from a trustworthy 

dealer. 

2. The demand for fish on Friday has made a very 

uneven demand on the supply and kept the 
price of fish high. Buy on other days than 
Friday and help make a more even market, 
thus reducing the cost. 

3. Buy in season. Cold storage fish often lacks 

flavor, spoils quickly, and is higher in price 
than fish which is in season. 

4. See the head. 

If the gills are gone, apply all other tests. 

If the eyes are gone, doubt it. 

If the flesh is soft and the skin slimy, scorn it. 

5. Have the heads of cod or haddock sent home for 

chowder or soup. 

6. Buy a large flsh and use the left overs, rather than 

a small fish for one meal. There is less waste 
in proportion to the amount of edible meat. 

7. Do not plan to keep fish uncooked for a very long 

time. 

Points of Choice: 
Smooth, moist skin. 
Firm flesh. 
Fresh odor. 
Full, bright eyes. 
Red gills. 
Fins and tail firm. 
A slice of fish should hold its shape and be well 

attached to the bone. 
Lobsters, clams, oysters, crabs, and terrapin should 

be alive in the shell. 



MARKETING CHARTS 



33 



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34 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 





i 

g 

1 
> 

< 




$1.00 a doz. 
$1.00 a lb. 


a 

03 




i 

s 

1 


Small, bright eyes not 
sunken in socket 

Bright red gills 

Firm flesh 

Bright skin 

Should be scaled before 
cooking 


Must be aUve 
Fresh odor 


1 


o 

O 

w 


i 


Cod steak for frjdng 
Whole fish for chowder 

and baking 
Cods tongues and 

cheeks for frying or 

chowder 


Fried 

Creaming 

Salads 

Newburg 


^•0 




i 

i 


Small eye 

Silver stripe from neck 

to tail 
Dark gray scales on 

back. White belly 
Flesh firm and white 
Large dry flakes when 

cooked 
Lacks flavor 


Soft shell. 

Sweet flavored meat 

Flaked crab. 

Meat sold by pound 


Sweet, characteristic 
flavor 

Eels from muddy water 
should be soaked in 
cold water, then par- 
boiled 




1 


1 




1 
5 






MARKETING CHARTS 



35 



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36 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



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38 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



1 


CO ^ hI-* 




X 


03 


i 
2 


! 


a 

f||| 




li 


0) 


1 


13 

s 
III 


li 
III 

mo 


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lllil 


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MARKETING CHARTS 



39 



1 

> 


3| 


Cut any amount 
20-50j^ a lb. 


Cut any weight de- 
sired 
30-35,^ a lb. 




Tightly closed shells 
Good odor 

Have opened to order . 
If open, not ropy or 

shmy 
Good odor, no water 

added 


Buy below the cut, to- 
ward the tail (less 
waste) 

Firm flesh 


it 

-8 

11 


S 


In shell — 

broiled, raw, or baked 

Out of shell — 
stew, chowder, scal- 
loped, or fancy roast 


Boiled 
Fried 
Baked 
Broiled 


Soak and broil or 

bake 
Creamed 


1 


Flavor varies with 

locahty 
Blue points, small, fine 

flavor 
Cotuits choice, large 
Easily polluted by 

water over beds 


Large fish, rich, fat 
flesh, varying in 
color, pale to deep 
pink 

Sold with entrails, al- 
low for waste 


Split, boned, and 

smoked 
Fine flavor, fat, no 

waste 


5 
1 

g 
-< 

Q 

z 


P 

1 


Salmon 
Western 

All the year 
Kennebec 

Apr. 15-Oct. 1 


1 



40 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



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42 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



Fruit 

General Rules for Purchase: 

Do not buy too many kinds at once. Variety is 

less important than in the use of vegetables. 
Buy fruit in season. Seasons are short for some 

fruits, and they may be used more frequently 

while they are in market. 
Choose fruit which is not bruised. 
A break in the skin means quick decay. 
Oranges, lemons, and grapefruit should feel heavy 

in the hand and have thin skins. 
Try comparing the juice content of a thin-skinned 

heavy-feeling lemon and a thick-skinned lemon 

of the same size. 
Few fruits may be stored at home. 
Small fruits, cultivated or wild, should be spread, or 

their own weight will crush them and break the 

skins. 
Buy small fruits only for immediate use. 
Can or preserve all not used for the table. 



MARKETING CHARTS 



43 



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44 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 






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46 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 






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48 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



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MARKETING CHARTS 49 

Vegetables 

General Rules for Purchase: 

1. Buy where you can obtain the best quality, — 

market, producer, or cart. 

2. Plan for variety from day to day, not at each 

meal. 

3. Demand good measure or weight at a reason- 

able price. 

4. Know the seasons and buy in season. They are 

fresher, better flavor, cheaper. 

5. Know the ways of cooking and serving, the food 

value, the qualities for choice. 

6. Do not buy poor quality. The waste amounts 

to more than the saving in first cost. 

7. Choose firm, crisp, ripe, tender vegetables of 

normal size and shape. 

8. Avoid wilted, specked, frozen, decaying, over- 

ripe, or green vegetables. Abnormal size is 
apt to mean hard, woody fiber and poor 
flavor. 

9. The amount to buy depends on available 

storage, suitability for storage, the number 
in the family, their fondness for vegetables. 

10. Summer vegetables lose quality rapidly and can 

seldom be stored. Should be cooked as soon 
as possible after harvesting. (See Farmers' 
Bulletin No. 256.) 

11. Winter vegetables, if ripe when harvested, may 

be stored in a dry, cool place and covered with 
sand. They should be purchased early, in 
bulk, direct from the field. Storage and winter 
loss cost. 

12. The prices of vegetables are regulated by the 

season and the supply or demand. 



50 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

13. Prices do not represent their food value. 

14. A decided drop in price usually indicates poor 

quality or oversupply. 

15. Out-of-season vegetables are expensive because 

of cost of transportation, and they usually 
lack the flavor of native vegetables. 

16. Hothouse vegetables are high because of the 

cost of hothouse care. 



MARKETING CHARTS 



61 



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52 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 






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54 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



1 

i 

■0 

p 

< 
> 


Succulence 
Variety 
Bulk 
Mineral: 

Phosphorus 

Calcium 
AlkaUne 


Variety 

Bulk 

Carbohydrates 


Succulence 

Variety 

Bulk 

Mineral: 
Phosphorus 
Iron Calcium 

AlkaUne 


1 

> 
g 

5 


Cook in a bag or 
tied in a cloth, un- 
covered, 20-30 min. 

Should be removed 
while still white. 

Serve creamed or 
plain 


Cook in boiling 
water, drain and 
rinse in cold water, 
and use as salad 


li 

li 




Soak head down at 
least § hr. in cold 
water. Remove 
stems and leaves 


Scrape, wash, cut in 
thin narrow sUces 
and put in cold 

water 


Cut off roots and 
large leaves (wash 
and dry for soup). 

Wash, scrape, and 
chill stalks in acid 
salted water 


B 

n 
|g 

< 


12-50)^ each 
1 to 2 for six 
people 


15 to 50ji 

1 to 2 (according 

to size) for six 

people 


10-40f* bunch 
1 bunch, six 
people 


§ 
o 

o 
1 


White, full 

heads 
Without mildew 
Outside leaves 

or stalks not 

wilted 
Do not store 


al 


Select without 
nail in root 
if possible. 

Choose firm, 
white, crisp 
stalks with 
fresh leaves 




Cauliflower 
Flower 
Sept.-March 


Celeriac 

Roots 
Nov.-Feb. 


Celery 

Stalk 
Aug.-Feb. 



MARKETING CHARTS 



55 



1 

g 

> 


Succulence 
Carbohydrate 
Variety 
Bulk 


Succulence 
Crispness 
Variety 
Alkaline 




^1 
li 


Crispness 

Variety 

Mineral 




^ 1 a 8 ^ 

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See 




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all 


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56 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 






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58 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



> 


Flavor 

Consistency 

Variety 


Protein 

Carbohydrate 

Flavor 

Succulence 

Variety 


Carbohydrate 
Bulk 
Mineral 
AlkaUne 




o 

o 
g 

o 

5 


1 

1 

d 


Boiling water 

Small amount, cook 
away. Salt when 
done. Save the 
water to use for 
soup 


Cook in boiling water 

30-40 min. 
Serve buttered, fried 

or in fritters. 


Stuff with forcemeat 
and bake 1 hour or 
sUce for seasoning 
and garnish, or boil 
and cream 




Wash, cut off the 
stem and remove 
the ribs 


Shell, pick over 
(washed pods may 
be put in a bag and 
cooked with peas) 




Wash, remove 
EVERT seed, par- 
boil 10 mmutes 


PQ 

II 




25ff-$l peck 
1 peck for six 
people 


H per lb. 
$2.00 per bu. 
2 lb. for six 
people 


2-10^ each 
1 served to each 
person 


1 
1 


Fresh, crisp 
pods of good 
color 


Choose crisp, 
green pods, 
well filled; 
seeds not too 
large, good 
color (not yel- 
low) 


Choose firm 
roots, not 
wilted or shriv- 
eled 


Choose crisp, 
glossy pods 
without black 
spots or 
bruises 


p 

li 

!2; 


Okra 
Pod 
June to frost 


Peas 

Seed 
June-Sept. 


Parsnips 

Root 

Frost to June 


Peppers 

Fruit 
(Pod) 

Fall and early 
Winter 



MARKETING CHARTS 



59 



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^ 03 Oh fl 



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60 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 





1 

s 

1 


Succulence 

Rehsh 

Crispness 

Mineral: 
Iron 

Phosphous 
Calcium 


Succulence 

Variety 

Bulk 


Succulence 
Variety 
Mineral 
Alkahne 


O 

i 


o 
g 

m 

Q 
< 

I 


^ 1 

! 

1^ 


Cook 20-30 min. 

Serve mashed and 
seasoned for a vege- 
table, or use for 
pies 

Summer squash may 
also be sliced and 
fried 


Cook and serve the 
leaves like spinach. 
Ribs like celery or 
asparagus. 20-30 
min. 


11 

"1 


.g 

a, 
|1 


Wash, cut, pare, 
cook in boihng 
water or bake and 
steam 


■;3 


1 


1 
IS- 

3 


2-15^ a lb. 
(winter) 

3-15^ apiece 
(summer) 

Buy barrel in 
winter if you 
have storage 
and use fre- 
quently 


! 




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A "dry " squash 
is a good one 






IS 

55 


Radishes 

Root 

All the year 


Squash 
Fruit 
Summer 

July-Oct. 
Winter 

Sept.-Apr. 


Swiss Chard 

Leaf and stalks 
Early Summer 



MARKETING CHARTS 



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62 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

General Rules for Purchase of Groceries 

1. Buy standard goods. 

2. Buy goods branded by packer: 

(a) Easier to indentify grades. 

(6) You get a standard quality, usually at a 

standard price, 
(c) The packers stand behind their branded 

goods. 

3. Package goods are cleaner, but usually much more 

expensive than bulk. 

4. A price above the average usually means extra 

quality or special features. 

5. Decrease in price from the average usually means 

old stock, overstock, or poor manufacturing 
conditions. 

Adulterations and Preservatives 

The Pure Food Law does not prevent the manufacture 

or sale of impure foods. 
It does make it possible to tell pure from impure foods. 
It requires that the ingredients be printed on the 

label. 
Adulterants may be added to any food, provided: 

1. The product is labeled properly. 

2. The adulterant is not harmful. 

The public must prove the adulterant to be harmful 
or the law cannot prohibit its use. 

The Federal Law applies only to goods sold from state 
to state. 

Goods sold within the state where they are manufac- 
tured are subject only to the laws of that state. 
Study your state food laws. 

State laws are often lacking or insufficient. You must 
then be your own judge of purity. 



MARKETING CHARTS 63 

Adulterated foods often require much label explanation 

to make their sale legal. 
These explanations are frequently blind if read casually. 
The more explanation required, the more care should 

be used by the housewife. 
The name of the packer is not apt to appear on impure. 

goods. 
There are four forms of adulteration: 

1. Substitution products ) with consequent loss in 

2. Makeweights Sfood value and quality. 

3. Artificial coloring 'i which may be a damage 

4. Chemical preservatives ) to health. 

All four forms may appear in one food. 

The presence of any adulterant means that the product 

is not first class. 
The question of danger in the use of preservatives is a 

mooted one. 
The general conclusion is that preservatives do not 

add to the nutritive value; their use makes it 

possible to use second quality materials and to 

cover unclean processes. It is possible to get on 

without them. 
Read your labels and reject those products which do 

not reach your standard. 

Purchasing in Quantity 

When you have sufficient storage, it is possible to save 
a substantial amount by buying canned goods in 
case lots or by the dozen; coffee, dried fruits, etc., 
in large quantity; butter by the twenty-pound 
tub; and some dry groceries by the large sack or 
barrel. 

One should take care that she is not led away by the 



64 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

idea of saving until she has purchased beyond the 
consuming power of her family. 
Many groceries deteriorate with long storing, and it is 
wasteful to eat simply to save, or to store food which 
the family will not eat until the interest on the money 
has far exceeded the amount saved. 



MARKETING CHARTS 



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MARKETING CHARTS 79 



Milk 

Choose your milkman carefully. 

Visit the dairy if possible; see conditions. 

Get a grading from the Board of Health if possible. 

Be willing to pay for clean milk. 

Clean milk cannot be produced at a low price. 

Read bulletins on milk production and care, issued by 
Federal or State Government, Colleges of Agricul- 
ture, and State Boards of Health. 

Remember: To take in the milk as soon as possible 
after it is dehvered. 

1. Bottles of milk should not be left where ani- 

mals can reach them. 

2. Milk should be kept cold. 

3. Bottles should be washed before going into the 

refrigerator. 

4. Wash the top of a bottle before opening. 

5. Do not return milk from the table to the bottle 

of cold milk. 

6. Do not leave milk out of the refrigerator one 

unnecessary minute. 
Grades of milk: 

Raw or market milk. 
Pasteurized milk. 
Certified milk. 



CHAPTER III 
MENU MAKING 

The wise housekeeper plans her meals, making a 
business or a game of the work, according to her attitude 
toward the subject. 

Meal planning takes time whenever it is done, but 
the success is far greater, with the use of less time, if 
they are planned ahead. 

A meal which is planned with reference to other 
meals is more interesting, has better food value and 
more variety, at less expense, than one which is planned 
hurriedly, with reference only to settling the matter for 
one more meal. 

The worst possible time to plan what to eat is just 
after eating, and the post-breakfast plan for dinner 
often shows the effect of a feeling that "anything 
will do." 

Plans made hurriedly, too, are usually for more 
expensive food, as there is no time for the long, slow 
cooking which most of the less costly foods require. 

The objection is frequently made that plans cannot 
be carried out because of unexpected guests. 

If a guest comes after the meals for the day are 
ordered, the amount of rearrangement necessary is 
the same whether that order was given three hours 
or twenty-four hours before the time for service. 

A plan a week old may be changed as easily as if it 
were new. 

It takes less time to rearrange a definite plan than it 
does to make an entirely new one. 



MENU MAKING 81 

The use of left-overs is another bugbear of the 
housekeeper who thinks that she cannot plan her 
menus. 

If the luncheons or suppers are arranged with possible 
left-overs in mind, it is not difficult to substitute an 
entree made from supplies on hand, in case the ''left- 
over" does not prove to be left. 

When absence, or lack of appetite, on the part of 
several of the family result in unexpected left-overs, 
it is a simple matter to substitute them for some of 
the dishes planned from new materials. 

A few moments spent in consultation with the maid, 
the ice box, and a planned menu will settle the question 
of food for the day. But real inspiration seldom comes 
to the woman who waits until she sees her ice box or 
her empty cupboard before planning. 

In writing the menus for the use of a maid, it is a 
great advantage to begin each sheet with the evening 
meal,^ following with the breakfast and midday meal 
for the next day. 

The maid then has before her the work for twenty- 
four hours, and if emergency prevents an early con- 
sultation in the morning, the cooking for the mid-day 
meal may still be started. It also reminds the house- 
keeper of processes which should begin early in prepa- 
ration for especial dishes. 

No attempt is made here to offer full menus, but 
either of these plans should give such assistance that 
menu making becomes a pleasure rather than a bug- 
bear. 

A few general directions will be of assistance, if care- 
fully studied. 

1. Consider nutritive value. 

Choose food from each of the five groups 
^ See menu sheet, Chapter VI. 



82 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

shown in the government chart for at least 
two meals a day. 

2. Consider interest. 

Do not serve a meal lacking in color, flavor, 
or variety. 

3. Consider harmony. 

Do not serve clashing colors or flavors. 

4. Consider cost. 

Do not serve foods requiring more money, 
time, strength, or fuel than you can 
afford. 



Ring and Card Plan for Menu Making 

The first plan has been used successfully by many 
people. Its great flexibility and the impossibility of 
unconscious repetition, if the cards are followed, are 
its chief recommendations. 

Provide yourself with small cards f''x2|" with 
holes at one end, with rings which open (such as are 
used on loose-leaf notebooks), and some stiff, colored 
cardboard to cut for title cards. 

Make a list of all the meat or fish dishes suitable 
for dinner which you would be willing or able 
to serve to your family. Write each of these 
on a separate card. 

Arrange these in an order which would probably 
be desirable for serving, planning to have fish, 
poultry, or roasts at times when you would be 
most likely to serve them; that is, if your 
family habits and traditions demand fish on 
Friday and baked beans on Saturday, arrange 
the cards so that beans follow fish, and that 
the meat for the next day is planned with 
Sunday dinner in mind. Do not include in 



MENU MAKING 83 

your list any dish which you cannot afford 
or which your family will not eat. When 
the cards are arranged, place them in order on 
one of the rings, with the colored title card 
on top. Label this ''Dinner Meats." This 
ring is the only one the order of which is es- 
pecially important. This arrangement should 
not be changed except to substitute from near 
the bottom of the list. 
Make a list of all ways of serving starchy foods 
which you would use as a dinner vegetable. 
Arrange these in desirable order which will 
give variety, so that due value is given to 
macaroni, rice, samp, potatoes, and possibly 
dasheens and Jerusalem artichokes, without 
falling into a routine which consists solely of 
baked or boiled potatoes. Arrange these on 
a ring with a title card ''Starchy Vegetables." 
Continue this planning, making ring lists for 
Succulent Vegetables, Dinner Soups, Dinner 
Salads, Dessert Salads, Dinner Desserts and 
Relishes or Garnishes, Luncheon Soups, 
Luncheon Hearty Dishes and Salads, Lunch- 
eon Desserts, and Breakfast Dishes. The 
rings which have to do with dinner should be 
fastened together on one larger ring, the 
luncheon rings also put onto one ring. 
Individual needs will govern the housekeeper in the 
choice of title cards which she will use. The titles 
given above have been found useful in a family of eight 
and another of sixty, as well as a number of others. 

It is desirable to make these lists as complete as pos- 
sible, but not to include dishes which you would not or 
could not serve to the particular family for which 
you are catering. 



84 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

The rings for dinner meats and for desserts can each 
easily include from twenty-five to thirty-five dishes if 
the effort is made to provide all the variety possible 
and to think of dishes which have been neglected or 
which may have dropped from use because they had 
been repeated too often and the family tired of them. 

To use these rings, keep dinner meats arranged in 
order as a basis for the whole. Start with the first 
card on the ring. If it is a light meat, or fish, plan for 
a soup which shall be suitable to serve with it. Write 
these on your menu sheet, and take up the vegetable 
rings. If the vegetable on the first card does not com- 
bine well with your meat, ignore the first card and go to 
the second, continuing until you have found a vegetable 
suitable to serve. Having selected one, remove the 
card from the ring, and replace it upon the bottom 
of the pack, so that the title card is on top, with the 
used cards so far down that they will not be used 
again until all the others have been considered. Con- 
tinue in this way, using each ring in turn, until your 
menu for the day is built up, using only such com- 
binations as are desirable, but never repeating a dish 
until all other cards have been considered. 

The use of the colored card is important. It should 
always be left on top of the next white card to 
be used. 

If guests or emergency change your plan, resume the 
ring plan as soon as possible, or you will drift into 
repetition. If you have cards for dishes which are 
in season only for a short time, it is better to keep 
them separate, introducing them into the ring plan 
only while they are in the market and desirable. For 
instance, asparagus, shad, or pork would naturally 
be used only during a definite season. 

Do not use this method for working out menus 



MENU MAKING 85 

unless you are making a schedule for at least four days. 
It is impossible to work to advantage if one meal or 
one day at a time is planned. 

Keep in mind that the chief objects in planning 
meals should be to: 

Give variety at the least cost, 

Avoid repetition, 

Keep food value. 
To get the same results without planning ahead 
would take far more time, strength, and effort. 

Chart Plan for Menu Making 

The second plan is a more arbitrary arrangement 
of dishes for dinner, with suggestions for relishes and 
garnishes which are possible. 

Here, the different dishes are numbered and No. 1 
carries with it not only a dinner meat, but the starchy 
and succulent vegetable and the dessert. 

Soups, salads, etc., are suggested but not planned 
for definitely, the intention being to make the meals 
more elaborate by the addition of the third course 
when this is desirable for especial reasons. 

The dishes given in the following charts have been 
used by several famiUes; but it is expected that the 
housekeeper will substitute the favorite dishes of her 
special family for any included here which were not 
desirable for their individual needs. 



86 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

CHART I 

DINNER MEATS 

1. Chicken or Fowl (roast, fricassee, or steamed and fried) 

2. Lamb Stew, or Roast Stuffed Shoulder, or Lamb Fricassee 

with Shortcakes 

3. Fish (broiled) 

4. Lamb Chartreuse with Tomato Sauce or Shepherds Pie 

5. Braised Beef (Aitch Bone, Bottom Round, or Face of 

Rump) 

6. Fish (boiled or baked) 

7. Beans, or Ham (baked in milk) 

8. Fowl (stew with dumplings, or boiled with one-half hour 

roasting) 

9. Roast Beef 
10. Broiled Fish 

IL Cold Roast Beef 

12. Lamb Chops 

13. Fish, Clam or Corn Chowder 

14. Baked Beans or Hamburg Steak 

15. Roast Lamb 

16. Fresh Pork Shoulder or Veal Loaf (from knuckle of 

veal) 

17. Cold Roast Lamb 

18. Beef Steak or Swiss Steak 

19. Liver or Stuffed Heart (braised) 

20. Finnan Haddie 

21. Beans, or Cannelon of Beef 

22. Duck or Roast Chicken 

23. Stuffed Pork Chops or Baltimore Stew 

24. Boiled Fish (with tomato sauce) 

25. Shoulder Chops in Casserole, or Nut Loaf with Sauce 

26. Roast Ham 

27. Baked Fish (stuffed) or New England Salt Cod Dinner 

28. Baked Beans and Cold Ham 

29. Boiled Fowl 

30. Ham Loaf 



MENU MAKING 



87 



31. Roast Lamb or Shoulder of Lamb boiled, caper sauce 

32. Fish 

33. Beef Pot Pie or Beef Stew 

Seasonal Meats or Fish Dishes which may be substituted while 
in Market 

Broiled Chicken Bluefish 

Duck Fresh Salmon 

Spring Lamb Mackerel 

Turkey Shad 

Veal Swordfish 



CHART II 



RELISHES 

spiced fruit 
currant jelly- 
mint jelly 
baked bananas 
caper sauce 
mint sauce 

apple jelly 



GARNISHES 



LAMB OR MUTTON 

parsley 
radishes 

if cold (cups of lettuce with 
pickles or chow-chow) 



LAMB CHOPS 



parsley 

French peas 

toast points and parsley 



LAMB OR MUTTON FRICASSEE 

pickles shortcakes 

curry 

capers 

ROAST BEEP 

horse radish (if cold) parsley 

mushrooms if cold (lettuce cups with 

fried bananas horse radish) 

Yorkshire pudding 

apple jelly 



88 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



STEAK 



Bearnaise sauce 
maitre d'hotel butter 
mushroom sauce 
omons 



parsley sprigs 
parsley chopped 
mashed potato roses 



dumplings 
currant jelly 



BOILED BEEF 

carrots 



POT ROAST OR BRAISED BEEF 

pickles parsley 

pickled beets 

CHICKEN 

cranberry sauce celery 

cranberry jelly or ice parsley 

celery or mushroom sauce rice 
oyster sauce 
giblet gravy 





TURKEY 


cranberry jelly 


celery 


cranberry sauce 




cranberry ice 


parsley 


celery 




sage stufl&ng 


(if cold) the stuffing in 


chestnut stuffing 


sUces with parsley or 


oyster stuffing 


heart lettuce 


sausage stuffing 






DUCK 


currant jelly 


fine green salad, as 



water cress 

chicory 

parsley 



MENU MAKING 



89 



PORK 



apple sauce 
cider apple jelly 
Soubise sauce 
fried apples 
currant or grape jelly- 



parsley 
celery tips 
(if cold) water 
radishes 



cress, 



chow chow 
chutney 
piccahlli 
lemon slices 



parsley with (lemon points 

(toast points 
chopped parsley 
water cress 
egg slices 



CHART III 
STARCHY VEGETABLES SUCCULENT VEGETABLES 



1. Rice 

2. Potatoes Boiled 

(in stew) or Roasted 

3. Boiled Potatoes 

4. Rice (with Chartreuse) 

5. Potatoes cooked with 

the Meat 

6. Buttered Potatoes 

7. Spaghetti with Ham 

(none if Beans are 
served) 

8. Boiled Potatoes 

Radishes 

9. Roast Potatoes and 

Yorkshire Pudding 

10. Savory Rice 

11. French Fried Potatoes 

12. Mashed Potatoes 



1. Squash 

2. Parsnips or Cauhflower 

in Season 

3. Tomato Scallop 

4. Cold Slaw 

5. Carrots 

6. Tomato Jelly Salad or 

Stuffed Peppers 

7. Dressed Lettuce (with 

Beans) 
Corn Fritters (with Ham) 

8. Scalloped Onions 

9. Spinach Creamed 

10. Lima Beans, dried 

11. Buttered Cubes of Tur- 

nip or Creamed Turnip 

12. Brussels Sprouts 



90 


MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK 


MANUAL 










Celery or 










Green Peppers 


13. 


Potatoes in the Chowder 


13. 


Salad of 


with Lettuce 
and French 
Dressing 


14. 


Macaroni (creamed) 


14. 


String Beans (with Steak) 




with Steak 




Dressed Lettuce and 




(none with Beans) 




Chili Sauce (with Beans) 


15. 


Roast Potatoes 


15. 


Squash 


16. 


Turkish Pilaff 


16. 


Onions 


17. 


Mashed Turnip and 
Potato 


17. 


Fried Parsnips 


18. 


Duchess Potatoes 


18. 


Chopped Celery Salad 


19. 


Boiled Potatoes 


19. 


Radishes 


20. 


Baked Potatoes 


20. 


Scalloped Corn with 
Pimento 


21. 


Rice with Beef (none with 
Beans) 


21. 


Lettuce and Water Cress 


22. 


Riced Potatoes, Celery 


22. 


Creamed Cabbage 


23. 


Duchess Potatoes on 
Chops 


23. 


Peas 


24. 


Boiled Potatoes 


24. 


Fried Green Peppers, or 
Asparagus (in season) 


25. 


Carrots, Potatoes (in 


25. 


Lettuce and French 




Casserole) 




Dressing 


26. 


Potatoes Scalloped 


26. 


Onions (stuffed) 


27. 


Boiled and Buttered 


27. 


Lettuce and Pickled Beets 




Potatoes with the 




with the Stuffed Fish 




Stuffed Fish 






28. 


Potato Croquettes with 
Ham (none with 
Beans) 


28. 


Kale or Spinach 


29. 


Rice 


29. 


String Beans 


30. 


Samp 


30. 


Beets 


31. 


Roast Potatoes 


31. 


Peas 


32. 


Mashed Potato 
Browned (with Cheese) 


32. 


Cucumber 


33. 


Baked Potatoes 


33. 


Peas and Carrots 



MENU MAKING 91 

When vegetables are out of season, use canned vegetables 
or substitutes, but avoid too frequent repetition. 

Rice, spaghetti, or samp may be substituted for potatoes 
far more frequently than this chart indicates. 

During times of shortage of potatoes one of these sub- 
stitutes should be served at least every other day for dinner 
and on alternate days for luncheon. 

CHART IV 

DESSERTS 

1. Fruit Ice 

2. Cut Fruit (apples, dates and oranges) 

3. Apple Dumpling (baked), Hard Sauce 

4. Chocolate Blanc Mange, White of Egg Garnish (in glass 

cups) 

5. Vanilla Ice Cream, Maple Sauce 

6. Cottage Pudding, Coffee Sauce 

7. Baked Apples 

8. Spanish Cream 

9. Apple Tapioca, with Cream 

10. Orange Pudding 

11. Steamed Fruit Pudding, Hard Sauce 

12. Apricot Ice, with Nuts and Whipped Cream Garnish 

13. Apple Dowdy with Cheese 

14. Orange Jelly 

15. Mint Ice (with Thin Chocolate Sauce), or Lemon Ice 

16. SUced Oranges 

17. Steamed Apple Dumpling, Liquid Sauce 

18. Pineapple Salad with Cream Cheese 

19. Caramel Custard 

20. Orange filled Cream Pie 

21. Pear and Nut Salad, French Dressing 

22. Frozen Apple Sauce, with Nuts and Whipped Cream 

Garnish 

23. Poor Man's Pudding (Rice) 

24. Prune Whip, Soft Custard (not baked) 

25. Apples, Boiled, Jellied, with Cream 



92 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

26. Orange Salad 

27. Lemon Pie 

28. Apples and Oranges (cut up, with Nuts) 

29. Ice Cream (Brown Bread, Prune or Coffee) 

30. Apple or Apricot Shortcake 

31. Prune and Pecan Salad 

32. Indian Pudding 

33. Bananas and Lemon Juice 



SIMPLE DESSERTS 

1. Orange Charlotte or Jelly 

2. Cottage Pudding, Vanilla or Lemon Sauce 

3. Baked Apples 

4. Chocolate Cornstarch Pudding 

5. Cut Fruit 

6. Hot Gingerbread and Cream Cheese 

7. Grape Fruit 

8. Prune Whip (baked) 

9. Junket (Chocolate) 

10. Peach Tapioca 

11. Apple Pie 

12. Old-fashioned Rice Pudding 

13. Prune Loaf 

14. Cut Fruit (Oranges and Apples) 

15. Sliced Pineapple 

16. Prune Jelly 

17. Steamed Apple Dumplings 

18. Boiled Rice with Raisins and Cream 

19. Washington Pie, (with Apple Sauce Filling) 

20. Canned Peaches on Golden Flakes 

21. Apples Boiled in Brown-sugar Sirup 

22. Lemon Milk Sherbet 

23. Raspberry Dumplings 

24. Chocolate Bread Pudding 

25. Water Sponge Cake and Stewed Prunes 

26. Coffee Jelly 

27. Steamed Cranberry Pudding 



MENU MAKING 93 

28. Pineapple and Cream Cheese 

29. Apple Whip with Soft Custard 

30. Apple and Celery Salad '' 

31. Cream Cheese, Jelly and Crackers 

32. Tapioca Cream 

33. Assorted Fruit 

Suggestions for the Use of Soups with the Charts 

After chicken or fowl there will be chicken soup 
stock; serve it the second day following. 

Bones and flank of lamb can be used for stock; serve 
with cold meat. 

If there is more stock, use for soup before finnan 
haddie. 

Tomato bisque may be served before fish. 

If there is celery or other vegetable stock, it should 
be used at luncheons. 

Cream soups should be served at luncheon rather 
than for dinner. 

Suggested Use of Left-overs 

Vegetables: 
In combinations for luncheon salads, as garnish or 
filling for omelettes, scalloped. 

Meats: 
Garnish or filhng for omelettes, small cakes, or meat 
loaf, chopped on toast, shepherd's pie, scalloped, 
hash, small pieces added to soups, croquettes 
with rice or potato, moist hash with potato and 
gravy. 

Fish: 
Fresh fish balls, creamed in a potato border, cro- 
quettes. 



94 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Soft-cooked Eggs: 

Hard cooked and used for sandwich fillings, garnish 
for spinach, salads, cream toast, soup. 
Cut Fruit or Canned Fruit: 

In jelly desserts or fruit salads. 
Cold Custard Puddings: 
Cut in squares, and served in cups with white of egg 
or whipped cream for garnish. 

Suggested Breakfast Dishes 

Creamed Dried Beef 

Fried Cereal with Sirup 

Scrambled Eggs, with Bacon or Dried Beef Garnish 

French Toast 

Chopped Meat on Toast 

Cream Toast, with Dried Beef or Egg Garnish 

Creamed Codfish 

Codfish Balls 

Broiled, Baked, or Creamed Smoked Halibut 

Bacon and Creamed Potatoes 

Soft-cooked Eggs 



Omelette 

Ham and Egg Cakes 

Fish Hash or Meat Hash 

Meat and Potato Cakes 

Codfish Hash 

Corn Fritters 

Griddle Cakes or Waffles 

Broiled Kidneys 

Baked or Broiled Fresh Tomatoes 

Kippered Herring 

Suggested Luncheon Dishes 

Vegetable Salads 
Spaghetti and Cheese 



MENU MAKING 95 

Macaroni in Gravy- 
Fish Salad (Spanish Dressing) 
Potato Salad with Egg or Sardine Garnish 
Cheese Rusk 
Salmon Scallop 

Spinach and Cream Cheese Salad 
Potato Chowder 
Sausage and Baked Apples 
Croquettes 
Scalloped Cheese 
Corn Chowder 
Scalloped Oysters 
Broiled Ham 
Scalloped Eggs 
Egg Toast 
Meat RoU 
Shepherds Pie 

Dropped Eggs on Toast with Cream Sauce 
Dropped Eggs on Toast with Tomato Sauce 
Eggs Scrambled in Tomato 
Tomato Cream Toast 
Eggs Dropped in Spinach (Creamed) Nests on Toast and 

Baked 
Fish Scalloped, in Mashed Potato Wall 
Fish Timbales, with Cream Sauce 
Scalloped Fish 

Creamed Codfish and Baked Potatoes 
Bean Loaf, Tomato Sauce 
Meat Hash, with Bread Crumbs or Potatoes 
Baked Eggs 

Chopped Meat on Toast 
Tripe in Batter 
Creamed Mushrooms 
Spanish Hash 

Omelette with Cream Sauce 
Omelette with Tomato Sauce 
Dropped Eggs with Hollandaise Sauce 
Liver and Bacon 



96 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Royal Scallop 
Stuffed Peppers 

Suggested Luncheon Desserts 

Vanilla Cornstarch Mold with Fruit 

Indian Pudding 

Spanish Cream 

Graham Pudding (Steamed) 

Steamed Chocolate Pudding 

Apple Slump 

Blueberry DumpHng 

Stewed Figs 

Tapioca Cream 

Caramel Tapioca (Cream) 

Pineapple Tapioca (Cold) 

Chocolate Cream Pie 

Cream Pie (in Baked Crust) 

French Toast with Sirup or Sauce 

Griddle Cakes with Sirup 

Rice Custard (Baked) 

Tapioca Custard (Baked) 

Baked Cocoanut Custard 

Baked Caramel Custard 

Cut Fruit 

Apple Whip 

Floating Island 

Orange Souffle 

Fairy Toast 

Golden Flakes 

Waffles with Sirup 

Mince Pie 

Prune Pie 

Blueberry Pie 

Cookies and Apple Sauce 

Brambles 



CHAPTER IV 
MENU AND ORDER SHEETS 

The menu and order sheets show a convenient 
method of rulmg a book or loose sheets so that the 
housekeeper may write her menu, make a note of the 
number she expects to serve and a list of the various 
foodstuffs which must be on hand in order to prepare 
those meals. The cost columns she may fill in when 
ordering, or later on from the slips, and she will then 
know the extent of her grocery and provision bill for 
the day. Should this not seem important to her, the 
cost jotted down at the time of purchase will make it 
possible for her to check her bills or to keep in mind 
the change in cost for the season or year. 

The second order column, headed Emergency 
Articles, should be used only when the order for 
staple articles has proved not to have been complete 
or when change of plans makes an additional order 
necessary. 

The weekly order sheet should have the Hst of staple 
articles which can be supplied and kept from one time 
of serving to another. 

To some people the use of such menu and order sheets 
will seem a burden. They need not use them. 

Experience has proved that people who do use such 
a plan get better service from their market men, more 
intelUgent service from their maids — and, if doing 
their own cooking, less often find themselves out of 
necessary supplies. 

The man who tried to rim his factory without order 



98 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

and requisition blanks, without planning to meet the 
needs for raw material, except by chance and memory, 
fails to be a successful manufacturer. Women should 
not expect to make the success of their business in 
life a matter of chance and memory alone. They 
should not be afraid to adopt business methods to plan 
their day's work, to keep records, and to provide an 
adequate system of supply and accounting. House- 
keeping is a business; many women treat it like an avo- 
cation to be dropped at the call of pleasure. 



MENU MAKING 



99 



GUIDE FOR KITCHEN ACCOUNTS 
WEEKLY ORDER SHEETS 
STAPLE ARTICLES Date 



ARTICLB-AMOUNT-DESCRIPTION 


COST 


ARTICLE- AMOUNT-DESCEIPTION 


COST 










Totals 




Totals 





Date MENUS 




ORDER 


LIST 






NUMBER 
SERVED 


PERISHABLE 
ARTICLES 


COST 


EMERGENCY 
ARTICLES 


COST 


DINNER 


Family 
Guests 
Maids 




Meat 
Fish 
Eggs 

Butter 

Milk 

Cream 

Fruit 
Vegetables 




Groceries 
Camied Goods 
Miscellaneous 




BREAKFAST 


Family 
Guests 
Maids 




LUNCHEON 


Family 
Guests 
Maids 




EXTRA 


Total 








Total 




Total 





CHAPTER V 

HOW TO SELECT FOODS — I. WHAT THE BODY 
NEEDS 1 

What the Day's Food should Provide 

(A) Mineral substances of great variety (lime salts, 
compounds of phosphorus, iron, and others). — These 
are used by the body for building material and are 
found in all parts of it. They also produce substances 
within the body tissues which tend to offset acid sub- 
stances produced in the tissues in the course of diges- 
tion of meats and cereals and serve many other impor- 
tant uses. Without fruits and vegetables the meals 
would be likely to lack certain mineral substances. 
Without milk they would be lacking in a mineral sub- 
stance specially needed by children; that is, lime. 

(B) Protein. — Protein serves as fuel for the body 
and also provides a certain important element, nitrogen, 
which is needed in the case of children for growth and 
in the case of both children and grown people to keep 
the body in repair. Without the meat or meat substi- 
tutes (including milk), the meals would be lacking in 
this body-building material. 

(C) Starch. — This is one of the chief fuels of the 
body and is supplied mainly by the cereal foods. 

(D) Sugar. — This serves as fuel for the body and 
to flavor the food. It is found in milk, fresh fruits, 
and many other materials, but unless small amounts 
of very sweet materials — sugar itself, sirup, or honey 
are used, the diet is likely to be lacking in it. 

(E) Fat. — This serves as body fuel and also im- 

1 Extract from Farmers' Bulletin, No. 808. 



HOW TO SELECT FOODS 101 

proves the flavor and texture of the food. It is present 
in meats, nuts, and many other foods, but unless small 
amounts of specially fat materials, like butter, oil, or 
cream, are used, the meals are likely to be lacking in 
it. Moreover, dishes cooked without a certain amount 
of fat and meals served without butter or some sub- 
stitute seem, to most persons, dry and unpalatable. 

(F) Cellulose. — This is the material which makes 
up the framework of plants. It gives bulk to the 
diet and may tend to prevent constipation. Without 
the fruits and vegetables the meals would be lacking 
in this important element. 

(G) Certain newly discovered substances in very small 
amounts, which are believed to play an important part 
in keeping people well and in promoting the growth 
of children. Without milk in the diet some of these 
substances, particularly those necessary for children, 
would be lacking, and without meat, milk, eggs, fruits, 
and vegetables, others needed by persons of all ages 
might not be present in sufficient amounts. 

(H) Flavorings and condiments. — In most famihes 
some materials are used in preparing or serving food 
which add to the attractiveness of the meals without 
furnishing the body any nourishment. Among these 
are salt, pepper, vinegar, lemon juice, spices, seasoning 
herbs, horse-radish, flavoring extracts, and many other 
materials often spoken of as "condiments." These are 
not discussed at length, because they are not absolutely 
needed by the body. They may, however, be very 
useful in making an otherwise unattractive diet taste 
good. In fact, the secret of making inexpensive meals 
attractive lies largely in the skillful use of seasoning 
and flavors, and in this way they may well be worth 
the cost they add to the diet, even if they do not in- 
crease its actual food value. 



102 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Any kind of food contains one or more of the sub- 
stances just described, and they are combined in as 
many different ways as there are kinds of food. A 
satisfactory diet contains all of them, and each in its 
proper proportion, and the problem of planning meals 
is really that of choosing foods which will do this. 

Grouping Foods to Show their Uses 

Perhaps as easy a way as any to select the right foods 
is to group the different kinds according to their uses in 
the body and then to make sm-e that all the groups 
are represented regularly in the meals. Fortunately no 
more than five groups need be considered: (1) fruits 
and vegetables; (2) meats and other protein-rich 
foods; (3) cereals and other starchy foods; (4) sweets; 
and (5) fatty foods. The materials under each of 
these heads have their special uses. It will be helpful, 
therefore, for the housekeeper to form the habit of 
thinking of the many different kinds of food which she 
handles as grouped in some such way as the following: 

Group 1. — Fruits and vegetables, such as apples, 
bananas, berries, citrus fruits, spinach and other 
greens, turnips, tomatoes, melons, cabbage, green 
beans, green peas, green corn, and many other vege- 
tables and fruits. Without these the food would be 
lacking in mineral substances needed for building the 
body, and keeping it in good working condition; in 
acids, which give flavor, prevent constipation, and serve 
other useful purposes; and in minute quantities of 
other substances needed for health. By giving bulk 
to the diet they make it more satisfjdng to the appetite. 

Group 2. — Meat and meat substitutes, or protein- 
rich foods: moderately fat meats, milk, poultry, fish, 
cheese, eggs, dried legumes (beans, peas, lentils, cow- 
peas, peanuts), and some of the nuts. These are sources 



HOW TO SELECT FOODS 103 

of an important body-building material, protein. In 
the case of children part of the proteia food should 
always be whole milk. 

Group 3. — Foods rich in starch: cereals (wheat, 
rice, rye, barley, oats, and corn) and potatoes (white 
and sweet). Cereals come near to being complete 
foods, and in most diets they supply more of the 
nourishment than any other kind of food. It is not 
safe, however, to hve only on cereals. The grains may 
be simply cleaned and partially husked before cooking, 
as in cracked wheat and Scotch oatmeal; they may be 
ground into flour and used as the basis of breads, cakes, 
pastry, etc. ; they may be partially cooked at the fac- 
tory, as in many breakfast preparations; or they 
may be prepared in the form of such pastes as macaroni, 
noodles, etc. In all these forms they furnish the body 
with the same general materials, though in different 
proportions. 

Group 4. — Sugar (granulated, pulverized, brown, 
and maple), honey, molasses, sirup, and other sweets. 
Unless some of the fuel is in this form, the diet is hkely 
to be lacking in flavor. 

Group 5. — Foods very rich in fat: bacon, salt 
pork, butter, oil, suet, lard, cream, etc. These are im- 
portant sources of body fuel. Without a httle of them 
the food would not be rich enough to taste good. 

Some food materials really belong in more than one 
group. Cereals, for example, supply protein as well as 
starch; potatoes supply starch as weU as the mineral 
matters, acids, cellulose, and body-regulating sub- 
stances, for which they are especially valuable; and 
most meat supphes fat as well as protein. For the 
sake of simplicity, however, each material is here 
grouped according to the nutrient for which it is usually 
considered most valuable. These points are all brought 



104 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

out in more detail in other bulletins which discuss the 
special groups. 

The lists given below show some of the common 
food materials arranged in these five groups. If the 
housekeeper will consult them in planning meals 
until she has learned where each kind of food belongs, 
she will have taken the first step toward providing a 
diet which will supply all the food needs of her family. 
It will be only one step, to be sure, but it should prevent 
two mistakes — that of serving meals that have not suf- 
ficient variety, and that of cutting down in the wrong 
places when economy either of time or money is needed : 

Geoup 1. — Foods depended on for mineral matters, vegetable 
acids, and body-regulating substances 

Fruits: Vegetables: 

Apples, pears, etc. Salads — lettuce, celery, 

Bananas etc. 

Berries Potherbs or "greens" 

Melons Potatoes and root vege- 

Oranges, lemons, etc. tables 

Etc. Green peas, beans, etc. 

Tomatoes, squash, etc. 
Etc. 

Group 2. — Foods depended on for protein 

Milk, skim milk, cheese, etc. Fish 

Eggs Dried peas, beans, cowpeas, 

Meat etc. 

Poultry Nuts 

Group 3. — Foods depended on for starch 
Cereal grains, meals, flours, etc. Cakes, cookies, starchy pud- 
Cereal breakfast foods dings, etc. 
Bread Potatoes and other starchy 
Crackers vegetables 
Macaroni and other pastes 



HOW TO SELECT FOODS ^ 105 

Group 4. — Foods depended on for sugar 

Sugar Candies 

Molasses Fruits preserved in sugar, 

Sirups jellies, and dried fruits 

Honey Sweet cakes and desserts 

Group 5. — Foods depended on for fat 
Butter and cream Salt pork and bacon 

Lard, suet, and other cooking Table and salad oils 
fats 

Thinking of foods according to the group to which 
they belong or according to the nutrient which they 
supply in largest amount will help the housekeeper to 
see whether in the meals she plans she has supplied 
all the different materials needed, especially whether 
there is the necessary, though small, amount of tissue- 
building mineral matters and body-regulating materials 
(group 1), and of tissue-building protein (group 2). 
When she has made sure that these are present, she 
may safely build up the bulk of the diet from whatever 
materials from the other groups that seem economical, 
wholesome, and appetizing. By means of this group- 
ing she will be reminded that meals consisting only of 
cereal mush (group 3), served with butter (group 5) 
and sirup (group 4), would not be a complete ration, 
and would almost surely be lacking in body-building 
material, because there are no foods from either group 1 
(fruits and vegetables) or group 2 (protein rich). It 
will become clear, also, that a school lunch of a kind 
far too frequently served, consisting of bread and cake, 
is lacking in the same way, and that a glass of milk 
(group 2) and an apple or an orange (group 1) would 
make it far more nearly complete. She will learn the 
wisdom of serving fruit (group 1) rather than a whipped- 
cream dessert (group 5) or a suet pudding (groups 3 



106 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

and 5) after a course including a generous portion of 
fat meat (groups 2 and 5). 

The grouping will also help the housekeeper who 
wishes to save money or time to simplify her meals 
without making them one-sided or incomplete. For 
example, if she has been serving bread, potatoes, 
and rice or hominy in one meal, she will see that one 
or even two of them may be left out without omitting 
any important nutrient, providing a reasonable quan- 
tity of the one or two remaining is eaten. It will show 
her that a custard which is made of milk and eggs, 
two foods from group 2, would hardly be needed after 
a meal in which a liberal supply of meat had been 
served, provided one ate heartily of all, and that a 
child does not need milk at the same meal with an egg 
or meat. It will suggest that baked beans or other 
legumes, or thick soups made of legumes, are substitutes 
for meat rather than foods to be eaten with meat. 

This method of planning prevents substituting one 
food for another which has an entirely different use. 
It prevents the housekeeper, for example, from trying 
to give a pleasant variety by using an extra amount of 
cakes or sweet desserts in the place of fruit and vege- 
tables when the latter seem difficult to obtain. Sugar 
is nutritious and has a valuable place in the diet, but 
the nourishment it furnishes is fuel and not the body- 
building and body-regulating materials which are 
found in fruits and vegetables, and it is not safe to cut 
them out, even if the meals can be made attractive 
without them. Fortunately, they are not always so 
hard to obtain as it seems, and the wise housekeeper 
will make every effort to supply them. In general, 
economy within each group is safer than using an in- 
expensive food from one group in place of an expensive 
one from another group. 



CHAPTER VI 
FOOD INVENTORY 

It is frequently desirable to know exactly how much 
is spent for food materials for a given time. It is often 
important that a housekeeper should know what food 
materials are costing, whether the amount spent for 
meat, groceries, and dairy products is well pro- 
portioned or not. While it is not supposed that every 
housekeeper will do this, it is quite worth while to 
know how, and experience of several years' use of this 
method leads me to believe that it has great value, 
especially for the young housekeeper who does not 
know prices and who fails to keep standards in mind. 
Study of such an inventory often discloses the fact 
that there is carelessness in the use of some staple 
article or that there has been an unconscious change in 
standards which has raised the amount spent for foods 
far above the usual allowance. If such an inventory 
were taken only twice a year, it would be far better 
than to omit it entirely. The following directions 
are easily followed if taken in turn. 

To Take a Food Inventory 

Provide inventory cards and a kitchen scratch book. 

Inventory cards are very convenient ruled with an 
inch wide space at the left for the name of the article 
inventoried and other information. 

The rest of the card is divided into twelve columns 
with the names of the months printed at the top of 



108 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

the columns. If the inventory is to be taken less 
frequently the card could be divided into fewer columns. 
On the first page of the scratch book make a list of 
containers in use with the accurate weight of each 
empty container. 

Under different headings make a list of all food mate- 
rials. 

Headings suggested: 

Ice box Store room 

Vegetable closets Dining room pantry 

Kitchen closets Ice cream salt 

Pantry 

To Take the Food Inventory 

1. Weigh or measure everything in stock at the 
beginning of the month (take the inventory for 
months or even weeks). Use the scratch book and 
keep the record under headings given above. 

2. Make out a card for each article. Milk, cream, 
fish, meats, etc., which are likely to be all used each 
time they are purchased may be inventoried under their 
general headings, for example under meat — all 
meat not Beef, Poultry or Lamb, might be entered on 
one card, only four cards being necessary. Under 
Vegetables, all vegetables not purchased in bulk, or 
which are of nearly the same nature. 

For example. 

Greens would include 

Spinach, Beet tops, DandeUons. 
Salad Vegetables and Relishes : 

Lettuce, Romaine, Endive, Cress, Celery, Radish. 
Succulent Vegetables : 

Carrots, Turnip, Beets, Parsnips, Onions, Brus- 

sel Sprouts, Salsify, Egg Plant, etc. 
Potatoes: White, Sweet. 



FOOD INVENTORY 109 

If there are likely to be left-overs each month separate 
cards must be provided. Or if for any reason it is 
desirable to keep exact information of the amount of 
any especial article used, a separate card should be 
made for it as, for example, the beef, lamb, and poultry- 
should be kept separate, so that one can be aware of 
too frequent use or disproportionate expenditure for 
any one article. Otherwise all purchases for the month 
may be entered on one card: example, Milk or Cream 
or Fish. 

3. From the record in the scratch book enter the 
value of the amount on hand in red ink at the head of 
the column for the month. 

4. Each week, when the grocery bills are received, 
check them up with the sUps received each day and 
enter the value of each purchase on the card designed 
for it in the column for that month in black ink. 
The cost per pound or unit of measure should be 
kept in the broad column at the left of the card. 

At the end of the month get the total amount spent 
for that food and write the total in red ink directly 
under the last entry. 

Don't forget to enter food purchased from the 
Petty Cash, or the food on other bills, as well as those 
from the regular markets, fish, butter, milk, and 
cream, canned fruits and vegetables. 

Weigh or measure all foods left (keeping the record 
in the scratch book), estimate the value of each, and 
enter the amount on the card at the top of the next 
month's column, in red ink. 

The difference between the amount in red figures at the 
head of next month's column and the total purchased 
for the month will be the value of the amount used. 

At the bottom of the column for the current month 
write the value of the amount used, in red ink. 



110 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

5. Arrange these cards under general groups and 
write an index card for each group. 
Suggested headings for index cards: 

Vegetables Eggs 

Canned Fruits and Vegetables Butter 

Meat Fruits 

Fish Groceries 

Milk and Cream Ice 

When all the cards are made out for each general 
subject, add all the red figures at the bottom of the 
columns of the current month and make out a state- 
ment card for the month, giving the total for each 
index group. Add these totals and you have the total 
cost for food for the month. Divide that by the number 
of meals served and you have the cost per meal. 

Divide the total cost by four and that by the number 
in the family, and you have the cost per person for a 
week. 

Make out a statement card for the month, this should 
read: 

October Card 

Total cost of food materials 

Number meals served: 

Family 

Guests 

Maids 

Total 

No. in family 

Cost per week to family 

Cost per meal 

Notes: 

1. Barrels of flour or sugar, large cans of crackers, 
potatoes, molasses, vinegar, olive oil, extracts, etc., 



FOOD INVENTORY 111 

must be estimated by getting an idea of the volume 
and reckoning amount used. 

Example: 
flour I bbl. gone — f left 2d month | bbl. left 
$8.75 per bbl. 3)875 4 )8.75 $5.84 

$2.91 used $2.19 $2.19 left 

$5.84 left $3.65 used 

2. Spices — take off 3 cents each month (until paid 
for) for each kind. 

3. Sugar (granulated) will be used in quite regular 
amounts, and after the first two months it is safe to 
charge up a definite amount each month. If these 
purchases, for any given time, suddenly jump, it 
should be investigated. 

4. Cooked food on hand will average the same from 
month to month and need not be considered. The 
same is true of milk and ice. 

5. Some contents of the ice box, as cheese, butter, 
bacon, olive oil, and salt pork, must be estimated 
each month, as amounts vary. 

6. Do not attempt the impossible — food materials 
can all be weighed, measured, or estimated with reason- 
able accuracy. In making calculations as to the amount 
and value of foods left over, add the half cent to the 
amount used (what has been paid for one month need 
not be paid for again). 

7. The value of this inventory — (a) It shows, within 
a few cents, exactly how much it is costing to feed your 
family. 

(6) It shows from month to month what you are 
spending for each kind of food materials. 

(c) Any sudden jump in these amounts at once indi- 
cates need of investigation. 



112 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

(d) It reveals poor marketing, change in standards, 
advance in prices, waste, cost of hospitality, petty- 
thefts. 

If not satisfactory, expenditures can be controlled 
the next month. 

(e) Costs of materials are fixed in the mind. 

The inventory is of no value unless figured accurately 
and done understandingly. 



PART II 
HOUSEWORK RULES AND DIRECTIONS 



INTRODUCTION 

The details of housework may be developed to fill 
several books. The purpose with these has been to 
keep them brief, to indicate different ways which are 
possible; but to go into no more detail than is neces- 
sary to make clear to the inexperienced worker what 
are the results desired, the methods, utensils, and pre- 
cautions to be used, in order to accomplish the work 
without undue strain or the use of too much time. 
The ideal is given; alternatives are often suggested. 

The rules for waiting on table are as simple, concise, 
and definite as possible. It has seemed desirable 
to indicate different ways of serving. A little study 
will show that these variations are not allowed to 
interfere with the definite plan which is carried through 
the whole set of directions. There are other books 
which treat in detail each method of serving and each 
step in dining-room work. These outlines if followed 
will give a smooth, dignified table service without re- 
quiring too much effort from one maid. The direc- 
tions are simple and if studied separately the un- 
trained maid should be able to follow them. 



CHAPTER VII 
THE CELLAR AND LAUNDRY 

Cellars should be well drained and light. Use 
for storage of useful things, not for clutter. 

Care of the Cellar' 

Air the cellar daily in winter, in summer at 
night. The cellar is drier if the hot air of the day is 
shut out (the moisture does not condense). 

Keep ashes in covered metal barrels. 

"The air of the cellar permeates the house: one-half 
goes to the first floor, one-third to the second floor, 
one-fifth to the third floor." (S. Maria Elliott.) 

''Decayed vegetables in the cellar weave shrouds 
for the upper chambers." (Dr. F. H. Hamilton.) 

Remove at once any vegetables unfit for use. 

Do not allow the cellar to collect refuse. Inspect 
the cellar once a week. Sweep frequently. 

Give a thorough cleaning twice a year: air, sweep 
walls, ceihngs, and one-half the floor. 

Clean and move all articles to the clean side. Sweep 
and clean the other half. 

Brush stationary articles. Let the dust settle. 
Brush again (use damp brush). 

Wash windows, tables, and closet shelves. White- 
wash the walls. Replace articles. 

Place screens in windows. 

One cleaning should be given when the coal bins 
are empty and the furnace not in use. 



116 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Furnace and furnace pipes should be cleaned in the 
Spring. 

Furnace pipes may be taken down, but if left up and 
an occasional fire built in damp weather the house is drier. 

Clear everything from the vegetable cellar at the 
end of the season. 

Quick lime left in the cellar absorbs moisture. 

A small amount may be left in metal container; 
too large a quantity is dangerous. 

Laundry 

The amount of equipment should be determined by 
the amount of work to be done. It is undesirable to 
equip an elaborate laundry if most of the work is to be 
done out of the house. If the mistress of the house 
is to do her own laundry work, it will pay her to put in 
all the mechanical devices which she can afford, to 
lighten her work. Hired workers are frequently careless 
with mechanical devices, knowing little and caring 
less about their money value. 

1. If possible, plan for comfortable, efficient work. 

2. Laundry work should be done out of the kitchen 

if possible. 

3. Separation from the rest of the house is desirable; 

the steam and heat are kept from the other 
rooms. 

4. Tubs, table, and ironing board should be placed 

at a convenient height, so the worker can stand 
erect (the ordinary carpenter will place them 
too low). It is better to have them too high 
than too low. 

5. Tubs and ironing board should be in a good light. 

6. Floor — 

Wood — not easily kept clean, roughens with 
use, least expense. 



THE CELLAR AND LAUNDRY 117 

Tile — non-absorbent, easy to clean, expensive, 
hard to stand on, wears well. 

Cement — may be made non-absorbent with 
cement paint, is easy to keep clean, 
durable, medium expense, hard to 
stand on. 
(Use rubber mats for either tiled or cement floor.) 

7. Stationary Equipment — 

(a) Tubs — Two necessary, three desirable. 

Should be set away from the wall in order 

to clean easily. 
Materials for tubs: 

Soapstone — medium price, absorbent, 

hard to care for, undesirable. 
Slate — shghtly more expensive, almost 
nonabsorbent, easy to clean, fairly de- 
sirable, has seams and is dark in color. 
Porcelain and Enamel — smooth, seamless, 
nonabsorbent, use increasing, more ex- 
pensive. 
(6) Stoves — A two-burner gas plate may be used. 
Small laundry stoves which hold a boiler 
or flat irons are inexpensive to run and 
first cost is not large; they may be con- 
nected with the hot water boiler and in 
the summer will save heat in the kitchen. 
Do not blacken such stoves; keep them clean 
and dry; rub occasionally with unsalted 
fat, but do not use very much at any time. 

8. Movable Equipment — 
(a) Portable tubs: 

Wood — poor, absorbent, if dry they drop 

apart, unsanitary. 
Fiber — smooth, seamless, light, break 

easily. 



118 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Galvanized iron — good, inexpensive, fairly- 
easy to handle, must be kept dry. 

(6) Wash board: 

Wooden — absorbent and undesirable. 
Glass-covered — easy to clean and lasts well. 
Zinc-covered — metal cracks or wears and 
tears the clothes. 

(c) Washing machines: 

Great labor and time-saving device, useful 
for rinsing as well as washing. 

Two types: 
Vacuum. 
Revolving. 

Expense from one to one hundred dollars up. 

Best to select after trial and choose one suited 
to personal needs. 

May be run by hand, water, or electric power. 

Mechanism should be kept well oiled and the 
tub perfectly dry. 

(d) Wringers: 

Time, strength, and material saver. 

Purchase good quahty. 

Use carefully. 

Loosen, clean, and dry the rollers after use. 

Keep the rollers covered when not in use. 

Oil the bearings often. 

(e) Boiler: 

Oblong boiler all copper or with copper bottom 
most durable, also most expensive. 

Tin boiler wears quickly, apt to rust the 
clothes. 

Any boiler must be carefully washed and 
dried after use. 



THE CELLAR AND LAUNDRY 119 

(/) Irons: 

Electric iron preferable, even heat, saves steps 

— expensive. 
Gas iron desirable when there is gas and no 

electricity. 
Alcohol iron good in absence of the other two. 
Common irons — come in different sizes, 

weights, and shapes. 
Must be kept free from rust and very smooth. 
At least three are necessary, four desirable — 

one heavy, three medium, one light. 
Nickel-plated irons with adjustable handles 
do not rust. 
(g) Mangle: 

Expensive, desirable if much work is to be 

done in the house. 

List for Laundry Equipment and Materials 

EQUIPMENT MATERIALS 



Stove Soft water 

Tubs Soap or chips (little resin) 

Pails Ammonia 

Dipper Borax 

Boiler Salt 

Washboard Bluing 

Washing machine Starch 

Wringer 

Clothes stick 

Clothes basket (one or two) 

Clothesline 

Clothespins in bag 

4-qt. saucepan 

Teakettle 

Teaspoon 

Wooden spoon 



120 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 



Cup 

Strainer 

Sprinkler 

2 bowls 



Bleaching 

Javelle water 
Peroxide 

Oxalic acid (must be used with 
care) 



Ironing 



Choice of 



flatirons 
electric iron 
gas iron 
alcohol iron 



Wax 

Salt for smoothing iron 

Cold starch 

Soft water 



Skirt board 

Ironing board 

Sleeve board 

Mangle 

Iron stand 

Iron holder 

Emery paper 

Comb and fringe brush 

Clothes horse 

Method: 
Sort the clothes in piles; watch for stains and neces- 
sary repairs. 
Put articles of a kind together: 

Table linen and fine towels. 

Bed linen. 

Fine lingerie and white waists, slightly soiled 
handkerchiefs. 

Underwear. 

Towels. 

Colored clothes. 

Woolen clothes. 

Stockings. 



THE CELLAR AND LAUNDRY 121 

Handkerchiefs, if used for coughs and colds, should 
be soaked in salt water, boiled separately one- 
half hour, and washed well. 
White Clothes: 

Remove stains. 

Soak the white clothes in soapy water, over- 
night if possible. 
Soak especially soiled clothes separately, rub 

soap directly on soiled places. 
Rub well; wash in several waters if necessary. 
Boil, rinse well, blue, and if desirable starch. 
Clothes that are not well rinsed look gray and 

smell of soap. 
Some kinds of bluing will make small rust spots on 
the clothes if the soap is not entirely rinsed out. 
To blue clothes: 
Use clean cold water and mix the bluing with the 

water before putting in the clothes. 
Do not make clothes too blue. 
Do not let clothes stand in bluing water. 

To starch clothes: 

Be sure the starch is free from lumps, well cooked, 
and hot. 

Dip the wet places into the starch separately and wring 
them out; be sure every part is wet with the starch. 

Hang away from the wind. 

When raw starch is used the articles must be thor- 
oughly dry when starched. 

Rub the starch well into the fibers and squeeze 
between the hands. Roll in a towel for an hour 
before ironing. 

To dry clothes: 
Dry clothes out of doors if possible; they are whiter 
and have a fresher feeling. 



122 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Be sure the lines are clean, strong, and tight. 

If they have been left out, wipe them with a clean 

damp cloth. 
Provide clean, whole clothespins. 
Hang white clothes in the sun if possible. 
Very fine pieces should be hung with extra cloths 

for protection between the clothespin and the 

line, especially in the winter when they freeze 

and t.ear easily. 
When the clothes are hung to dry care should be 

taken to let the strain of the weight come on the 

warp threads, especially with table linen and bed 

linen. 
Care in hanging saves much work in ironing. 
Learn to hang clothes so that wrinkles will blow out. 
The sun whitens clothes; dampening with soapy 

solution and placing in the hot sun will usually 

bleach time stains. Repeat until the stain dis- 
appears. 
Ironing: 

The object in ironing clothes is to make them smooth 

and free from wrinkles. 
The ironing board should be covered first with a 

thick pad, then with cotton tightly and smoothly 

stretched. 
The clothes which are to be carefully ironed must 

be well dampened. 
Sprinkle evenly with the hand or a whisk broom 

kept for the purpose. 
If the clothes are too wet the iron will stick to 

starched clothes; if too dry wrinkles will not iron 

out. 
Roll in smooth, tight rolls; straight articles, like towels, 

napkins, etc., may be rolled all of a kind together. 
Allow to stand several hours or overnight. 



THE CELLAR AND LAUNDRY 123 

Many people prefer not to iron sheets, Turkish 
towels, or body clothes. Sun-dried clothes have 
a fresh sweet smell. 

If clothes are not to be ironed, stretch more carefully 
when hanging and fold directly from the line. 

With limited time it is better to iron well the impor- 
tant articles and choose such material for the rest 
that ironing is not necessary. 

Be sure the irons are clean. 

Iron coarse things first; finest things, — lingerie, 
neckwear, and dresses — last. 

Iron all pieces until dry. 

Articles must be ironed straight with the thread or 
they will be out of shape. 

Iron the thinnest part of a garment first, then the 
part which will muss least easily while the ironing 
is being finished, then the fussy parts where wrinkles 
will spoil the appearance of the whole. 
Colored Clothes: 

Try a sample first if possible. 

Set the color by soaking in one gallon of water with 
two cups of salt or one cup white vinegar; dry 
before washing. 

Do not soak colored clothes when washing. 

Use soft water and little soap. 

Wash before they are badly soiled. 

Wet with cold water. 

Wash with warm soapy suds. 

Do not rub with soap if it can be avoided. 

Squeeze between the hands. 

Avoid rubbing and wringing. 

Rinse in several waters and starch wrong side out; 
rub the starch in. 

Hang in the shade wrong side out, where there is a 
current of air to dry quickly. 



124 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Bring in the house as soon as dry. 

Dampen and allow to stand only a short time (not 

overnight) before ironing. 
Iron on the wrong side if you desire them to look 

new; they will not keep clean so long. 
Avoid too great heat; it may change the color. 

Stockings: 
Use soap for washing the feet of the stockings but 

not for the tops. 
Wash first the right, then the wrong side. 
Rinse well in fresh water (to avoid the lint from other 

clothing). 
Pull into shape and hang wrong side out by the 

tops. 

Flannels: 

Shake well to get rid of loose dirt. 

Wash one piece at a time. 

Use suds made from mild soap and soft lukewarm 
water. 

Use several waters, all the same temperature. 

Rinse carefully — to the last water may be added 
a small amount of glycerine, | teaspoon to a 
gallon of water, or just enough soapsuds so that 
the water feels smooth; this makes the wool 
soft. 

Shake well and dry at room temperature slowly. 

Pull into shape while drying. 

Iron with a warm iron if at all. 

Do not allow woolen materials to get very dirty 
before washing. 

Do not rub soap on the material. 

Do not change the temperature of washing and rins- 
ing water. 

Do not soak or boil or rub woolen material. 



THE CELLAR AND LAUNDRY 125 

Do not twist woolen material as in wringing by hand. 
Do not let flannel freeze. 
Do not use too hot an iron. 
Do not dry by the fire. 

Silks: 
Use suds of lukewarm water and mild soap. 
Rub as little as possible. 
Rinse well. 
Squeeze (do not twist) between the hands or wring 

between cloth in wringer. 
Roll at once in soft cloth and let stand about an 

hour. 
Iron while damp. 
Do not sprinkle. 
Iron on wrong side. 
Do not use too hot an iron; it yellows silk and makes 

it stiff. 
Silk underwear should be stretched, not ironed. 

To Clean the Laundry 

Clean each utensil. 

Put everything in its proper place. 

Wash and scrub and dry the tubs. 

Flush the pipes with soda water. 

Oil the washing machine. 

Loosen and cover the rolls of the wringer. 

Cover the clothes basket from dust. 

Do not store anything in the tubs. 

Cover the tubs from dust. 

If the cover of the ironing board is stained or burned, 

replace it. 
Wind and bring in the clothesline. 
Gather up all the clothespins and put in bag or basket 

provided for them. 



126 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Clean and smooth the u-ons and put them away in a 
dry place. 

Never allow m)ns to stand on the stove when not in 
use. 

Electric irons should be carefully covered from damp- 
ness, the cord disconnected, and put away. 



CHAPTER VIII 

THE KITCHEN AND KITCHEN PANTRY 
Care of Kitchen and Kitchen Pantry 

Daily Care: 

Empty and wash small garbage can. 

Sweep and dust. 

Wipe, wash, or scour work tables and shelves. 

Wipe or wash the floor when necessary. 

Clean the range and gas stove. 

Wash and scour the sinks. 
Weekly Care: 

Special attention to gas burners, floor, tables, re- 
frigerator, shelves, and food containers. 

Disinfection of sink, drainage pipes, and yard garbage 
can. 
Monthly Care: 

Brush the walls. 

Clean under the oven of the coal stove. 

General inspection to see that things are in order 
and clean. 

Special attention to shelves and cupboards. 
Seasonal Care: 

Wash the walls and storage shelves and cupboards. 
The ideal would be to wash the waUs as often as 
once a month; but if the dust is kept brushed off 
the washing can be done less frequently. 

Coal Range 

CHOICE 

In choosing look: For a range which is plain, with 
little or no nickel or ornament, 



128 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 
For a simple, clean arrangement for removal of 



For a convenient opening for cleaning the flues. 

An eight-inch cover is more convenient than 
smaller ones, and one should be sure that the oven 
is the size suitable for her needs. 

CONSTRUCTION AND PARTS 

A metal or iron box with a smaller box at the end. 
Some built-in ranges have small boxes at each end. 
Flues: 

Both boxes are surrounded by a larger box, with 
air spaces, called flues, between. 
Fire Box: 

The small box opens at the top into the air space; 

and is divided horizontally by a grate. 
The top part is called the fire box. 
Ash Box: 

The lower part is called the ash box. 
Oven: 
The large box, called the oven, is surrounded by air 
spaces on top, side, and bottom. 
Water Connection and Lining: 
Coils of pipe or metal front for water in fire box — 
other sides of fire box are usually fined with fire 
brick. 
Chimney Damper: 
A flat plate, which when shut nearly closes the space 
opening into the chimney — when closed the 
heat goes round the oven and heats it; when 
OPEN the heat goes directly up the chimney — 
the fire burns more rapidly but the oven does not 
heat. These dampers may usually be closed 
in 10 to 15 minutes after the fire is started. 



THE KITCHEN AND KITCHEN PANTRY 129 

Drafts: 

Doors or slides below the fire box which, when open, 
allow a strong current of air to pass up through 
fire; this causes rapid combustion and if the 
chimney damper is closed the oven heats quickly. 
When the drafts are closed the fire burns more 
slowly, as most of the air is shut out. 
Checks: 

Slides in the small door, above the fire box and in 
the chimney pipe which, when open, let cold air 
in on top of the fire, force the heat back and 
deaden the blaze. 

Facts to Remember 

1. There must be free circulation of air through the 

fuel — air spaces between the paper, wood, and 
coal. 

2. Air entering the stove under the fire causes an 

upward draft and makes it burn faster. 

3. Lack of air under the fire checks it. 

4. Cold air over the fire checks it. 

5. With the draft and the chimney damper open, 

the fire burns fiercely, the top of the stove 
grows very hot, but the oven is not heated. 

6. Proper use of checks and drafts will control a fire. 

7. Ashes in the pan when you start a fire will absorb 

the heat at first. 

8. When the fire has burned dull red or white the 

coals are exhausted — burning to white heat 
melts the coals, makes chnkers, and injures the 
top of the stove. 

9. Clinkers may be removed by burning oyster shells 

or quicklime on top of the fire. 
10. If the top of the stove gets red hot, the covers 
will warp. 



130 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

11. Shaking, packs an old fire down and stops the 

draft. Raking from below or turning a revolv- 
ing grate removes the ashes without packing 
the fire. 

12. Too shallow a bed of coals won't burn well. 

13. Coals above the fire box lining waste heat and 

injure the top of the stove. 

14. A hard coal fire must not be poked from the top. 

Gas Range 

CHOICE 

The fireless cooker gas range is excellent and a money 
and time saver. It is still too expensive for many- 
people. 

In time its use will save the extra cost; but one 
must consider that the initial cost is greater than 
that of the cabinet or box range. 

Second choice a cabinet range with ovens on a level 
with the eye at the side of the top cookers. There 
is no adequate reason for having the oven so low 
that one must stoop to it. 

^ CONSTRUCTION 

Oven : 

The oven may be at the side, above or below 
the top cookers. 

Usually a steel box with holes in it to allow the 
passage of hot air, surrounded by another or cen- 
ter steel case with hot air space between. 

Outside of center case a steel case with air space 
and asbestos lining between. 

This outer case also covers space below oven box, 
inclosing the broiling oven and burners. 

Burners under the box or oven, usually with an 
opening and cock outside which is called pilot 
cock. 



THE KITCHEN AND KITCHEN PANTRY 131 

Broiling pan under burners. 

The heat and odors carried away through chimney- 
connection at the top of the stove. 
Top Cookers: 

Round burners with grates or racks above to 
hold the cooking utensils. 

Removable pan under burners. 

Burners should have an opening or valve in the 
pipe to admit air. This must be adjusted so 
that the flames will be clear. 

Burners should be removable so that they can be 
easily cleaned. 

USE AND CARE OF GAS RANGE 

1. Study and learn the position of the supply pipes 
and burners. Be sure there is an outlet to the chimney. 

2. Learn where the gas cocks are and which way to 
turn them to open and close. (Handles should turn 
to the right to shut off the supply.) 

3. It is a good plan when the range is not in use to 
close the cock in the main pipe so that there can be 
no leakage from imperfectly closed cocks at the stove. 

4. To Hght a burner, open the cock in the supply 
pipe, hght a match and hold it away from the stove. 
Open the cock in the burner pipe and apply the match 
or taper. Do not apply the match before the cock 
is opened, as the gas is liable to light back in the 
pipe. 

5. To light the oven burner, close the oven cocks 
tight — open the oven doors (important) — open the 
pilot cock and apply the match through the hole made 
for the purpose. Open one oven cock, then the 
other; when both are burning clear, close the pilot 
cock. 

6. Gas should burn a clear blue with orange light 



132 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

at the tips of the flames. If it splutters and burns 
yellow, it has hghted back, will not heat, will smut, and 
should be turned off and lighted again. 

7. Light the top burners when ready to use them, 
the oven burners five minutes before using for broiling 
or toasting; five to ten minutes for baking or roasting. 
Reduce the heat when the oven is hot. One burner 
may often be turned out entirely. 

8. Do not waste gas; when a small, low flame will 
do, use it. When water boils turn the flame as low 
as possible to continue boiling. Use the simmering 
burner whenever possible. It gives enough heat to 
continue cooking which has been started on the large 
burners. 

9. Gas should burn so as to strike the bottom, not 
the sides of the saucepan. Place the saucepan over 
the center of the flame. Use saucepans of a size suita- 
ble for the burner — do not use small saucepans on 
large burners. 

10. Turn off the gas before removing the saucepan 
from the stove. Never let the gas burn an instant 
unless in use, or to heat the oven. 

Matches are cheaper than gas. A patent Ughter is 
a good investment. 

11. When the oven is hot from baking, or while 
broiling, place a pan filled with water in it and the 
water will heat without the expense of extra gas. 

12. Plan to bake while the oven is in use for broihng. 

13. Keep the holes in all the burners clear. If 
food boils over, remove the burners and clean by boil- 
ing in soda solution. Clean the iron sheet under the 
burners every day. A paper over the iron sheet is 
dangerous, as it catches fire easily. 

14. Rub the range with crumpled newspaper to re- 
move ^ots. Wash or scour off anything the paper 



THE KITCHEN AND KITCHEN PANTRY 133 

will not remove. Rub with a cloth with a few drops 
of kerosene to remove rust, and then with a slightly- 
greasy cloth to blacken. Use blacking only in extreme 
cases, and never on the gas burners. 

15. If the gas burns yellow, with a roar and bad 
odor, it has too much air; close the air valve. If 
yellow and smoky, it has too little air; open the air valve 
until the flame burns clear. 

16. Removable burners may be boiled out in a solu- 
tion of washing soda, two tablespoons of soda to a gallon 
of water. 

17. A crown top spreads the gas, heats a larger 
surface, and saves gas. 

18. Report a gas leak at once, and frequently, 
until repaired. 

19. A gas plate and portable oven will do very good 
work at comparatively small expense. It is well to 
have a portable oven to use on a gas range for a small 
amount of baking. 

Kerosene Stoves 

Use and Care: 
Study the stove, read the directions carefully^ light, 

regulate, and turn out the flame several times 

before trying to use the stove for cooking. 
Clean the Surface of the Stove Every Day. 

Keep the stove absolutely free from dust and bits 

of charred wick and food. 
Clean Thoroughly, Often. Be sure that no oil 

gathers on the outside of the burners or flame 

spreaders. 
Never allow the stove to burn dry. 
Clean the wick according to special directions for 

each stove; cut off the loose ends, but do not 

trim the wick with scissors. 



134 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Keep the wick clean and free from charred top. 
The stove should be filled every day if used. 
Watch for leaks and remedy at once. 
If the flame dies down when the tank is full of oil, 

it is because the wick is short. 
The feed pipe from the tank to the burner should 

be drained occasionally to free it from sediment. 

Fireless Cookers 

May be home made; see Farmers, Bulletin No. 771, 
"Homemade Fireless Cookers and Their Use." 

Ready-made fireless cookers — more expensive, more 
convenient, easier to keep clean. 

Purpose: 

Retention of heat in the food so that food may be 

cooked without the continuous application of heat. 
The insulating material with which the cooker is 

packed prevents radiation and escape of the heat, 

which is thus enabled to complete the cooking 

of the food. 

Construction: 
Outside box. 
Insulating material between the box and the metal 

lining of the container. 
Cooking utensils with close-fitting covers. 
Pad or cover of insulating material. 
Heating stones or metal disks. 

Use: 

Best suited to foods which require long, slow cooking, 
cereals, steamed breads, stews, pot roast, vegeta- 
bles, dried fruits, etc. 

Baking or other quick process not so desirable. 

Frying not possible. 



THE KITCHEN AND KITCHEN PANTRY 135 

Method of Use: 

Cook the food over the fire until thoroughly heated, 

ten to twenty minutes. 
Place in the cooker and close. Cook until done, the 

time according to the nature and amount of the 

food. (See recipes for use with Fireless Cookers.) 
Extra heat may be provided by heating stone or 

metal disks until hissing hot and placing in the 

cooker under the cooking utensil. 
Fooid may be browned by hanging such a hot disk 

inside the cooking utensil; but there must be no 

water in the utensil. 

Care of Cooker: 

Dry perfectly as soon as possible after the food is 
removed. Leave the cover ajar until ready to 
use again. 

Never let anything drop into the cooker compart- 
ment and dent the lining. 

Wash the cooker fining with hot soapsuds and scour 
spots with Dutch Cleanser. Dry perfectly to 
prevent rust. 

Kitchen Sinks 

Choice: 

Choose the material best suited to the type of house. 

Place in front of a window if possible, with a shelf 
or draining board each side. 

The space under the sink should be open. 

See that the sink is set high enough for the worker, 
the bottom of the sink even with the flat hand 
when the worker is standing erect, with arms 
straight down in front and the hand turned flat 
at right angles to the body. 



136 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Iron (not a desirable choice). 

1. Rusts easily. Scrub, scour, and scald frequently. 

2. A little kerosene rubbed into the iron each day 

keeps it in good condition. 

3. If an iron sink gets rough and rusty, rub soft 

mutton fat inside the sink and sprinkle with 
powdered quicklime. Let this stand over- 
night, wash off with water and an old brush — 
swab the sink well with sal soda solution and 
dry thoroughly. Repeat if necessary. 

4. An occasional greasing overnight is good for an 

iron sink. Always follow with sal soda solution 
to clear the grease from the pipes. 
Soa'pstone: 

1. Inexpensive, soft, absorbent, hard to clean. 

2. Keep the surface oiled; scour, then oil. 

3. Do not chip or break the surface. 

4. Keep clean: use hot water, soap, and a brush. 

5. Avoid coarse friction. 
Slate: 

Non-absorbent, easy to clean, very satisfactory. 
Expands and contracts — may crack. 
Use caution about sudden change of temperature. 
Keep oiled. 

Clean as for soapstone. 
Porcelain lined: 

Must be kept clean without hard scouring, kerosene 

will usually remove spots. 
Chips easily and will not stand careless, hard wear. 
Protect the bottom with a rubber mat. 
All Porcelain: 

Expensive, will break or chip — attractive, must be 

cleaned with soft friction or kerosene. Durable 

if used with care. 



THE KITCHEN AND KITCHEN PANTRY 137 

Use and Care of Sinks: 
Keep the pipes free from bits of food. 
Use a strainer in the sink. 
Avoid greasy water. Wipe the grease from dishes 

before putting them in the dish water. 
Wash the sink with hot, soapy water each time it is 

used for washing dishes, and rinse with cold water. 
Scrub the sink once a day. Rinse with much cold 

water. 
Once a week flush the pipes thoroughly with hot 

water, then with a strong solution of sal soda and 

much hot, then cold water. Use 1 pt. of sal soda 

to 12 qts. of boiling water. (| cup of soda to 

3 qts. of water for one sink.) 
If the pipes are stopped, make the solution four times 

as strong, or use a solution of potash which makes 

soft soap of grease. 

Process with Potash: 
Dissolve a can of potash in 2 qts. of cold water. 
Warm the pipes with boiling water. 
Pour in the potash solution. 
In half an hour, pour down much boiUng water — 

and rinse well. 
Avoid letting the potash touch the hands or wood. 
Do not inhale the fumes of the potash. 

Refrigerator 

Choice: 
Look for well-insulated walls with tight joints. 
A possible temperature of 40-42 degrees. 
Good circulation of air currents. 
Smooth, easily cleaned, non-absorbent lining. 
Select a size proper for your needs. 
For construction of refrigerator see Kinne and Cooley 



138 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

in ''Foods and Household Management," pages 
22-23. 
Use and Care: 

1. Stand in a light well-aired place. Outside 

conditions should not affect the inside tem- 
perature, unless the door is left open. 
Remember that if the door is left ajar the hot 
air goes into the refrigerator and raises the 
temperature. 

2. Do not connect with the regular drain pipe 

unless well trapped and carefully watched. 

3. May drain into a pan or a special pipe which 

leads out of the house and discharges at some 
distance on loose stones, or has a flexible end 
so that the direction of the discharge may be 
changed frequently. 

4. To get the best service keep the ice chamber 

full of ice. The air in the box is then cold 
all the time and the ice melts less rapidly. 

5. Do not cover the ice with paper or blanket — it 

prevents good circulation of air currents and 
raises the temperature of the refrigerator 
chambers. What is saved in cost of ice is 
lost in refrigeration. 

6. The coldest, driest part of the refrigerator is 

the first chamber into which the air passes 
after cooling on the ice. Place the milk and 
butter in this chamber, and keep them covered. 

7. Food with a strong odor should be covered and 

kept in the upper part of the last chamber in 
the air cycle. 

8. Do not use the ice chamber for food; it is likely 

to absorb odor and the temperature is no 
lower than in the next compartment if the 
circulation is right. 



THE KITCHEN AND KITCHEN PANTRY 139 

9. Do not put warm food in the refrigerator; it 
raises the temperature and increases the ice 
bill. 

10. Use only clean, inexpensive dishes in a refrigera- 

tor — fine china or glass break or chip. 

11. Wipe the shelves at once if any food is spilled. 

12. Never allow food to stay in the refrigerator long 

enough to spoil. 

13. Watch that food does not touch the sides of the 

food chambers and dry on. 

14. Do not allow left-overs to collect. 

15. Do not put paper bags in the ice or food chambers. 

16. If the lining of the refrigerator is broken have 

it repaired at once. 

17. Whenever ice is to be put in, remove the small 

pieces and wipe out the ice chamber. Wash 
the new ice and replace the old piece. 

18. Keep the shelves and walls of the food chambers 

clean every day. Once a week clean the 
whole chest and air it thoroughly. 

19. Keep the doors closed tight except when ab- 

solutely in use or cleaning. 

20. When using the refrigerator for the first time in 

a season clean it and put in ice several hours 
before any food is placed in the food chambers. 

To Clean the Refrigerator: 
Clean when the ice is low. 
Remove the food and cover it from the dust. 
Remove the ice and cover with newspaper to prevent 

melting. 
Prepare hot soapy water. 

Ice Chamber: 

Remove the ice racks and wash and scrub thor- 
oughly. 



140 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Scrub the ice chamber and rinse with boihng 

water. 
Remove the waste pipe and trap if possible and 

scour inside and out. 
Pour boihng water through it. Clean the trap 

and replace the pipe. 
If the trap is fixed, brush or swab it out and scald 

with strong soda water. 
Replace the racks and ice, shut the doors tight, 

and wipe the outside. 
Scrub the drip pan and replace it. 

Food Chamber: 

Remove the shelves and wash and scrub with hot 
soapsuds. 

Use a BRUSH — Rinse with hot water with am- 
monia in it. 

Dry with a cloth and place in the open air, if 
possible in the sun. 

Scrub the top, bottom, sides, and the inside of 
the door of the food chambers. 

Use a skewer for corners and angles. 

Rinse with hot ammonia water and wipe dry. 
Leave open to the air. 

Wash the sill where the door closes. 

Replace the shelves and food. Close the doors 
tight. 

Disposal of Kitchen Waste 

Burn all you can. 

Keep the garbage separate from the other waste 

and in a covered can. 
Empty large cans two or three times a week. 
If the city collects garbage and waste, report at once 

any failure to collect at the usual time. 



THE KITCHEN AND KITCHEN PANTRY 141 

Wash and disinfect the cans every time they are 
emptied. A paper in the bottom makes this 
easier, but local laws may prevent the use of paper 
with garbage. 

Have small garbage cans for use in the kitchen and 
pantry. 

Empty these each day, or oftener, and wash carefully. 

Dry waste should be kept in barrels and emptied 
by the city, or burned in proper cages. 

Empty tin cans should be rinsed, to remove all 
traces of food; drained, to prevent possible 
breeding places for mosquitoes; and the covers 
pressed back into position so that animals will 
not get caught in the cans. 

Ashes should be stored separately from other waste. 

Use covered barrels when placing waste on the side- 
walks for collection. 

Consult the local laws in regard to the collection of 
ashes, waste, and garbage. 

Washing Kitchen Dishes and Utensils 



Wash as soon as through using them. 

If this is not possible, soak in cold water all dishes 

which have been used for batters, milk, or eggs. 
Soak other dishes in hot water. 
Greasy dishes should be wiped with soft paper. 
Never put grease or bits of food into dish water or 

into the sink. 
Use a dishcloth and clean soapy water. 
Wash and rinse carefully. 
Wipe with clean towels. 
Cooking Utensils: 
Scrape. 
Remove grease with soft paper. 



142 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Put washing powder, or soda and cold water into roast- 
ing and baking pans and stand on the stove to boil. 
Wash with soap and water, using a cloth. 
Rinse with hot water. 
Dry with a towel and stand on the shelf at the back 

of the stove. 
Never put away any utensils until perfectly dry. 
Agateware: 

Scour stains with sapolio or scouring powder. 

Do not scrape food from agateware. 

Soak well and boil if necessary. 

Dry with a towel. If the towel is discolored the 

utensil is not clean. 
Aluminum: 
Use mild soap and hot water. 
Do not use soda, soap powder, or ammonia; a little 

weak acid will brighten aluminum. 
Boiling with fresh water will soak off any food. 
Be careful not to bend or dent aluminum. 
Ironware: 
New ironware may be greased with mutton tallow 

and heated slowly. 
If very rough let the grease remain twenty-four 

hours, boil half an hour in a soda solution, and 

grease and heat again. 
Scour ironware with coarse friction soap or Bath 

brick. 
Iron muffin pans should be cleaned with a damp 

cloth and only washed when absolutely necessary. 
Dry ironware in the open oven or on the back of the 

stove. 
Tinware: 
If new tinware is greased sHghtly and warmed slowly 

without burning, it will not rust. 



THE KITCHEN AND KITCHEN PANTRY 143 

Dry tin thoroughly or it will rust. 

Do not try to keep tinware bright, it wastes time and 

material; keep it clean and dry. 
Woodenware: 
Wash in hot, soapy water. 
Rinse in clear, hot water. 
Wipe with a dry towel, then dry in the sun or air. 

Fire heat is apt to crack wood. 
Scour sink shelves, pastry and meat boards, and 

chopping bowls with sapolio, using a brush. 

Rinse in clear, hot water and dry. 
Soap turns wood yellow. 

Bowls which retain odor, should be soaked in hot 
. soda water, 1 teaspoonful soda to 1 qt. of water. 
Teakettle: 
Empty and allow it to dry when not in use. 
Wash every day. 
Keep the outside polished and free from smoke and 

grease. 
Tea and Coffee Pots: 
Rinse in cold water. 
Wash in hot water. 
Scald, dry, and leave open. 
Egg Beaters: 
Rinse, clean, dry, and hang up as soon as through 

using. 
Never put an egg beater to soak and never let the 

cogs get wet. 
Bread Box: 
Wash twice a week or oftener. 
Empty and remove all crumbs; wash with soap and 

hot water. 
Rinse with boiling water. 
Dry and air in the sun if possible. 



144 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Milk Bottles: 
Rinse at once with cold water and leave filled until 

ready to wash. 
Wash in hot soapy water, drain and turn sidewise in 

a pan of clear scalding water. 
Never use milk bottles for any other purpose than 

to hold milk. 
Steel Knives: 

Wash, scour with powdered Bath brick or scouring 

powder, using a large cork or a cut potato to 

scour with. 
Wash again and dry at once. 
Precaution: 

In all scouring, whether of woods or metals, use a 

damp, not a wet, cloth or scouring utensil. Too 

much water prevents the frictional material from 

taking hold and the work is worse than useless. 

Kitchen Tables, Shelves, and Floors 

Wooden Tables: 

Use hot water, sapoho, or scouring powder, a brush, 
and two clean cloths. 

Wipe the table with a cloth wet in clear water. 

Rub sapolio on the brush and scour with the grain 
of the wood. 

Rinse with the clear water. 

Wipe with the dry cloth. 
Zinc Table: 

Use Bath brick for scouring, brighten with weak acid. 

Kerosene cleans zinc well, but is not safe when food 
is to be prepared on the table. 
Kitchen Closets: 

Remove everything from the shelves; dust and cover. 

Dust the shelves with a damp cloth. 



THE KITCHEN AND KITCHEN PANTRY 145 

If the shelves are unfinished, scrub as for the kitchen 

table. 
For finished wood use mild soap and rinse and dry 

quickly. 
Wash empty jars; dry perfectly. 
Wash and air the bread box. 
Replace the contents of the shelves in order — the 

articles used most on the front of the lowest 

shelves. 

Kitchen Floors: 
Unpainted. 

Sweep (using a hair brush). 

Wipe up the dust. 

Scrub small sections at a time. 

Rinse and wipe dry. 

Change the water often. 

Use soda or soap and sand for grease spots. 
Varnished Floor or Linoleum: 
Sweep (using a hair brush). 
Wipe up the dust. 
Wash small sections at a time, using little water and 

mild soap; rinse and wipe dry. 
Linoleum wears better if varnished when new and 

waxed lightly once a week after washing. 



CHAPTER IX 

THE DINING ROOM, PANTRY AND DISH WASHING 

Care of Dining Room Pantry 

Equipment: 

Sinks or pans for washing and draining dishes. 

Soap shaker. 

Dishcloth and dish mop (if the worker will keep it 
clean). 

Sink cloth. 

Dish scraper. 

Silver cleaning materials — brush and cloths. 

Trays — for dishes. 

Small garbage pail. 

Keep the pantry free from scraps or crumbs of food. 

Empty and wash the garbage pail after each meal. 

Arrange the dishes so that those used most fre- 
quently are nearest the kitchen slide or dining 
room where they are to be used. Example: 
serving dishes which must go to the kitchen near 
the kitchen sUde; glasses, etc., near the dining 
room door. 

Keep the dishes in their proper places on the shelves. 
Tahle Linen: 

Keep the Unen in orderly piles, all of a pattern and 
size together. 

Doilies may be arranged in sets as they are to be 
placed on the table, but otherwise sizes should be 
sorted and kept flat. 

Large doilies may be rolled, but should not be folded 
or rumpled. 



DINING ROOM, PANTRY, DISH WASHING 147 

Never use soiled or rumpled doilies on the table. 
Do not tuck soiled table linen into a drawer; mice 

are apt to find it. It is likely to be forgotten 

until needed for use. 
The last table Unen washed should be placed at the 

bottom of the pile, so that the pieces will be used 

in turn and the wear will be even. 
Remove fruit stains at once by stretching the 

stained part over a bowl and pouring boiling 

water through it from a height of eight to ten 

inches. 

Dish Washing (table dishes) 
Object- 
To clean, dry, and poKsh. 
Order: 

(A) Kitchen utensils, greasy dishes, silver and china, 

glass. 

(B) Glass, silver, china, greasy dishes, kitchen 

utensils. 

A requires more water; necessitates four changes. 
B, the water is changed less frequently and is thus 
less sanitary. 
Preparation: 

Grease removed, scraps collected, wipe with soft 
paper. 
To save Time: 

Pile according to kind (at right of sink if possible). 

Stand silver in cold water, kinds separate. 

Arrange in order to be washed. 

Have plenty of hot water and clean towels. 
Utensils: 

Two pans (paper or fiber pans are good). 

Wire drainer or rack, round, fits pan — saves hot 
water. 



148 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Soap-shaker. 

Dish mop (not desirable unless the worker is very 

particular to keep it clean). 
Two dishcloths. 

Towels which absorb water and do not lint. 
Deep saucepan for silver. 

Materials: 

Soap (mild) or ammonia may be used for glass and 

silver. 
Soap powder or washing soda. 
Hot water ad libitum. 
Silver polish, metal polish, Bristol brick. 
Dutch Cleanser, Bon Ami, or Sapolio. 

Method: 
Fill both pans with hot water; add soap to one, leave 

the other clear. 
Arrange the dishes in piles at the right of the sink. 
Wash each piece and dip in the pan of clear water 

at the left of the dishpan. 
Place on edge in the drainer. 

When the drainer is full place it over the second pan. 
Rinse the dishes with very hot water. (It must not 

be boiling hot for very fine china.) 
The ideal way is to have the second pan large enough 

so that when the drainer is placed in it the dishes 

are submerged for a moment in the hot water; 

then the drainer is raised and the dishes stand 

a moment to dry. 
A slight polish, with a clean dish towel, is all that is 

then necessary before putting them away. 
Failing the ideal, the next best is to pour the hot 

water slowly over the dishes as they stand in the 

drainer. 
If dishes can be packed in the drainer so that they 



DINING ROOM, PANTRY, DISH WASHING 149 

will drain dry without wiping, it is a desirable 

method to follow — it saves towels and work and 

is more sanitary. Cups and deep dishes must be 
. inverted in the drainer as soon as they are scalded 

or they will not dry. 
Be sure all towels are clean and dry. 
To wipe dishes hold them in the left hand with a 

clean dry towel between. Wipe with the other 

end of the towel. 
Never let the hands touch the food side of a dish 

when wiping or putting away. 
Glass: 

Wash in hot water and dry at once with a fresh towel. 

Do not drain or rinse if you wish glass to sparkle. 

Do not use strong soaps. 

Cut Glass: 

Wash each piece separately in warm water with 
ammonia, rinse and dry at once. 

Breakage is often due to sudden changes of tempera- 
ture. Place the dish in the water sidewise. 

Never rinse under the faucet. 

Knives: 
Hold knives in the hand and wash. Expansion and 
contraction from heat and water cause wooden 
handles to loosen and ivory to turn yellow. 
Silver: 
Avoid scratching (mineral soaps and scouring powder) . 
Wash kinds separately. Hold a few pieces in the 

hand and wash. 
Use hot soapy water and rinse with boiling water. 
Then dry and polish by rubbing with the towel. 
China: 
Rinse out liquids with cold water. 
Wipe greasy plates with soft paper. 



150 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Wash in moderately hot water with plenty of mild 

soap (except for gold band). 
Pile in a rack. Rinse and wipe. 

Cautions: 

Keep the water hot and clean. 

Use mild, good soap. 

Use a clean dishcloth. 

Never use a dishcloth for any other purpose than 

washing dishes. 
Keep one dishcloth for the finer dishes. 
Boil the dishcloths frequently. 
Keep the dishcloths white. 
Use clean, dry towels. 
If rinsing water is hot enough there will be less need 

for towels. 
Never allow the hands to touch glass, silver, or china 

which you are wiping or putting away. 

To Clean Silver 

Wash carefully and wipe dry from scalding water and 
silver will not require frequent polishing. 

Materials: 
Silver paste, powder, or soap. 
Water or alcohol or ammonia water. 
Soft cloths. 
Brushes. 

Method: 
Apply the cleanser, using a soft cloth. 
Use a brush for engraved pieces. 
Rub discolored spots especially. 
Wash carefully in hot soapy water scald and wipe dry. 
Polish with a soft flannel cloth. 



DINING ROOM, PANTRY, DISH WASHING 151 

Notes: 

Silver is brighter if wiped directly from clean, hot, 
slightly soapy water. There is no taste of soap. 

If preferred it may be scalded with clear water, but 
it will not be so bright. 

Silver may be boiled in a bright aluminum pan or 
in a pan with several small pieces of zinc in it, 
or in a special silver pan, with salt and soda. 
These methods clean the silver but do not polish 
it. If accustomed to polished silver, do not expect 
to be satisfied with the appearance of silver cleaned 
in this way. 

To Wash Dish Towels 

Wash the dish towels at least once a day. 

Wet in cold water. 

Rub with soap. 

Wash in hot water. 

Use a small rubbing board. 

Rinse well. 

Wring dry, stretch smooth, and hang evenly, out 

of doors if possible; if not, on a rack in the air 

and light. 
Once a week or oftener towels should be boiled. 



CHAPTER X 

THE DINING ROOM AND TABLE SERVICE 
Care of the Dining Room 
Air the room. 
Dust the mantel and large plain surfaces of the 

furniture, so that the room shall not appear to be 

dusty and uncared for. 
After breakfast is cleared away give the floor a thor- 
ough cleaning and when the dishes are done 

dust the room carefully. 
After each meal leave the rugs, furniture, and floor 

free from crumbs, the furniture in place, and the 

shades even. 

Table Setting 

Dust the table — cover with a silence cloth or table 

pad. 
Put on the tablecloth, folds up, the center of the 

cloth in the center of the table, the folds straight 

with the table. 
If possible have flowers, a fern, or a plant in the 

exact center of the table. 
A place plate may be laid for each person, always 

placing them opposite each other. 
The place plate and silver are called a cover. 
If serving is done by the host or hostess they may 

sit at the sides of the table. 
If the service is by a maid the host or hostess can see 

their guests better from the ends. 



THE DINING ROOM AND TABLE SERVICE 153 

Silver: 

Lay knives, forks, and spoons, for each person, the 

ends of the handles | to 1 inch from the edge 

of the table, the number corresponding to the 

courses to be served. 
The pieces to be used first placed on the outside. 
The dessert silver may come with the dessert. (The 

table is then clear when the cloth is crumbed.) 
Knives should be laid at the right of the plate, 

the sharp edge toward the plate. 
Spoons, beside the knives, with the soup spoon 

outside. 
Butter spreaders, on the bread and butter plate or 

beside the spoons. 
Forks, at the left of the plate — tines up. 
Dessert silver (a spoon and fork) may be laid on 

the dessert plate or placed at the right of the 

cover when the dessert is served. 

Dishes and Linen: 
The bread and butter plate should be placed at the 

end of the fork. 
The timibler at the right of the knife near the end 

of the blade. 
The napkin folded at the left of the forks. 
A carving cloth may be placed in front of the host if 

the carving is done at the table. 
Salt and pepper should be placed where they are 

convenient to the most people. 

Serving Dishes and Plates: 

Plates and serving dishes should be warmed — not 
too hot. 

Plates may be placed in a pile on the serving table 
and exchanged as the carver requires them; or, 
for an informal service without a maid, they may 



154 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

be placed in a pile at the left of the carver, to 

be filled in turn. 
If vegetables are to be passed by the maid, serving 

spoons should be in readiness on the side table. 
If vegetables are to be served at the table, serving 

spoons should be placed on the table in front of 

the person who is to serve the vegetables. 
The carving knife and fork should be on the side 

table, and placed at the right and left of the 

carver, with a spoon for serving dish gravy, when 

the roast is placed. The knife should be sharp- 
ened before the meal is announced. 
General Rules: 
The last thing before announcing a meal, fill the water 

glasses f full and refill the water pitcher. 
Place a butter ball or square on each bread and 

butter plate and see that an extra supply is at 

hand. 
Be sure that bread is cut and covered to keep it from 

drying. 
Serve hot food on hot dishes, cold food on cold dishes. 
Have all serving dishes warm (if desirable). 
Arrange all dishes in order for each course. 
Have crackers ready to pass. 
Place the finger bowls on the dessert plates with 

doilies and fill \ full before the meal is announced. 
Arrange a small serving tray with a doily and place 

it on the serving table. 
Use this tray for passing sugar, cream, and small 

dishes and for removing salt, peppers, and extra 

silver when clearing the table. 
Have ready a clean serving napkin to use folded 

on the hand under hot dishes or plates. 
Have ready a folded napkin and small plate for use 

in removing the crumbs before the dessert is served. 



THE DINING ROOM AND TABLE SERVICE 155 

Questions to ask before the Meal is Announced: 

Does the table need anything — Butter, water, silver, 

bread, dishes? 
Is the serving table perfectly arranged? 
Is there plenty of room on the serving table for use 

in emergency? 
Are the chairs properly placed? 
Are the doors unnecessarily open? 
Are the windows right? No draughts? Shades right? 
Is the temperature right? 
Are the plates warm? 
Are the extra dishes ready? 
Are the serving spoons in place? 
Are the candles lighted and long enough to burn 

through the meal? 

Table Service 

These rules are arranged for simple table service 
where there is only one waitress, who is also chamber- 
maid. More formal service is frequently indicated; 
but is not desirable where many people are to be served 
by one waitress. 

General Rules: 
Work noiselessly. 
Never pile dishes. 
Do not hurry. 

Have a sensible reason for everything you do. 
Do not consult the hostess except in great emergency 

and then in a tone inaudible to other guests. 
Bring in serving dishes, then food. 
Remove the food, soiled china and silver, clean 

china and silver, and the crumbs. 
Everything relating only to one course should be 

removed before serving another course. 



156 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Dishes which admit of choice should be passed at 
the left, held in the left hand and low enough 
so that the guests may serve themselves easily. 

Dishes which do not admit of choice should be 
placed from the right with the right hand. Every- 
thing may be passed, placed, and removed from 
the left, except that drinks which are to be kept 
at the right side of the plate should be always 
placed there. 

When replacing with a full plate remove the empty 
plate with the left hand and place the full plate 
with the right. 
Waiting on Table: 

If the first course is cold it may be on the table when 
the meal is announced or placed after the family 
is seated. 

Place the soup plates on the place plates from the 
right, holding them in the right hand. 

Crackers or bread may be placed on the bread and 
butter plates before the meal is announced. If 
passed, hold the plate in the left hand and pass 
to left of each guest. 

To remove plates, go to the left of the guest, take 
the soup plate in the left hand, and pass to the 
right; go to the next guest and take the soup 
plate with the left hand (or take the soup plate 
and place plate in the left hand and replace 
with a hot serving plate) . 

Take the empty plates to the pantry and return for 
more. More formal service requires the removal 
of one plate at a time and also requires more 
people to serve. 

Less formal service allows the plates to be placed 
on a side table and removed to the pantry while 
the next course is being eaten. 



THE DINING ROOM AND TABLE SERVICE 157 

Bring in the hot plates and place them on the serving 

table. 
Bring in the roast and place in front of the host. 
Place carving knife and fork at the right and left 

of the roast. 
Stand at the left and exchange the carver's place 

plate for a hot serving plate. 
Go to the pantry for the vegetables and place on the 

serving table. 
Take a hot plate from the pile on the serving table. 
Stand at the left of the host and exchange the hot 

plate for the filled one. 
Go to the left of the hostess and exchange the filled 

plate for the cold place plate. 
Retm-n to the side table and leave the place plate; 

take a hot plate to the left of the host and exchange 

for the filled plate. 
If the hot plates are placed when the soup plates 

are removed there will be no necessity of thought 

in regard to the removal of cold place plates here; 

but the serving plates are not as hot as when placed 

in this way. 
Serve the hostess first, then the guest at the host's 

right, then all on that side of the table, then 

the guest at the left of the host and all on that 

side. 
When all guests are served to meat, take the potatoes 

or other starchy vegetable in the left hand (on 

a folded napkin), place a serving spoon and fork 

in the dish, and pass to each guest in turn at the 

left. 
Repeat with the second vegetable. Keep the vege- 
tables hot until ready to pass them the second 

time. 
Gravies, rehshes, etc., may be placed on the table 



158 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

beside the hostess, who will serve herself and 

pass them on to the guests, more formal service 

requires that these be passed by the maid. 
Pass the vegetables a second time. 
When all are finished remove the roast, fold the 

carving cloth, and remove it. 
Remove the plates as before, replacing with salad 

plates if salad is to be served. Place serving 

spoon and fork on the salad. 
Pass the salad at the left of each person. 
Pass crackers and replenish butter and water where 

they are needed. 
When all are finished, remove all plates as before, 

also taking the bread and butter plates. 
Hold a tray (with a doily on it) in the left hand and 

place on it all silver not used, salt and pepper, and 

relishes. 
Avoid all noise. 
Clear everything from the table except the glasses 

and nuts or bon bons and cloth. 
Brush the crumbs into a small plate with a folded 

napkin. 
Place the dessert plates (with the finger bowls, 

one-third full, on doilies) at each cover. The 

silver may be placed at the right or may be laid 

on the plate with the finger bowl. 
Bring in the dessert and place before the hostess. 
Place the serving spoon and fork. 
Stand at the left of the hostess; replace the filled 

dessert plate with an empty one. 
Go to the guest at the right of the host and exchange 

the filled dessert plate for the empty one. 
Return to the hostess' left and repeat until all are 

served. 
Pass cake or cookies. 



THE DINING ROOM AND TABLE SERVICE 159 

Refill the water glasses — handle from the bottom, 

draw to the edge of the table to fill. 
The coffee may be served in the dinmg room or in 

the living room. 
Pass the cream and sugar on a tray. 



CHAPTER XI 

THE LIVING ROOM 

Daily Care: 

Clean the hearth and lay the new fire. 
To lay a Fu-e in the Fireplace: 

Remove or cover any loose paper or ashes. 

Pack the fine wood ashes at the back under the 
andirons. 

Arrange charred pieces of wood from the last 
fire at the back and brush the hearth clean. 

Place crumpled paper between the andirons. 

Lay three sticks of kindling across the andirons 
and three pieces across those, log cabin 
fashion, with wide spaces between. Put a 
good size stick of wood at the back of the 
kindling, a smaller stick in front of that, and 
a third stick on top. Leave spaces between 
the sticks of wood for the air and smoke to 



Put away magazines and newspapers and arrange 

tables, music, etc. 
Dust large polished surfaces early, before the 

family are down. 
Later dust the floor (use a long-handled covered 

bristle brush). 
Clean the rugs (with a carpet sweeper). 
When the dust has settled dust the furniture 

thoroughly. 
Give special attention to the desk. 

Refill the inkwell, when necessary. 



THE LIVING ROOM 161 

Dust the blotter; change it if ink spotted. 
Dust the pencil tray. 

Leave papers undisturbed or in neat piles. 
Care for the reading lamp : 
Dust the shade and vase. 

Remove the lamp to the housemaid's closet or 
kitchen; protect the table with several layers 
of newspaper. 
Wash the chimney as if it were table glass, wipe 

perfectly dry and poHsh. 
Fill the tank to f of an inch from the top. 
Turn the wick high and rub off the charred edge. 
Light, to be sure it has an even edge. Do not 

cut the wick unless absolutely necessary. 
Wipe the burner and tank carefully to remove 
every particle of oil and any charred bits of 
wick. 
Do not replace the tank in the vase until you 
are sure there is no oil on the outside. 
Throw away the faded flowers. 
Change the water, on others. 
Empty the waste baskets. 
Straighten the rugs, shake and puff the cushions. 
Put chairs in their proper places. 
If the people who use a room always leave it in 
order work will be simplified. 

Program for Thoroughly Cleaning a Room Without 
a Vacuum Cleaner 

Roll and remove the rugs. Clean them outside 
the house if possible. 

Clean and roll the shades. Brush the curtains and 
remove them or fold into bags kept for the purpose. 

Dust and remove small furniture, fireplace fittings, 
and all hangings. 



162 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Dust and cover heavy furniture (brush upholstery). 

Dust and cover pictures, mirrors, etc. 

Dust the floor or carpet (open the windows if the 
dust will draw out). 

Dust windowsashes and frames, door frames, etc. 
(use a soft brush for corners). 

Cover a broom or brush and brush the walls and 
ceiling. 

Brush the baseboards or rub them with an oiled 
cloth. 

Sweep the floor with a brush covered with a slightly 
oiled or dampened cloth. If the floor can be wiped 
with a dampened or kerosene cloth it improves it. 

If there is a carpet on the floor sweep well with a 
carpet sweeper (use a whisk broom in the corners). 

Let the dust settle and 
(a) Clean the rugs. 
(6) Wash the windows. 

(c) Clean the andirons and fender. 

(d) Wash ornaments and globes of lighting fixtures. 
Dust the woodwork. 

Clean spots on paint or woodwork and wash the 
hearth of the fireplace. 

Wipe the carpet or large rug with cloth wrung from 
water and ammonia. 

Replace rugs, hangings, and small furniture. 

Remove cloths from furniture and polish the wood- 
work. 

Draw the shades even; close and lock the windows. 

Clean and dry all cloths and utensils and put every- 
thing in its proper place. 

To Clean a Room With a Vacuum Cleaner 

Clean and roll small rugs. 
Clean and roll the window shades. 



THE LIVING ROOM 163 

Clean the wall surfaces (if there is no attachment 
for the purpose, use a covered brush as above). 

Clean all upholstery and fabrics with special attach- 
ment. 

Clean the large rug. 

Dust or wash all bric-a-brac and the globes of 
lighting fixtures. 

Dust all of the woodwork with an oiled or dampened 
cloth. 

Wipe the floors with oiled or dampened cloth. 

Wipe the rugs with a cloth wrung from ammonia 
water. 

Wash the windows. 

Clean spots on paint and woodwork and wash the 
hearth. 

Put the room in order. 

Clean and dry all cloths and utensils and put them 
in their proper places. 

Notes 

If the room has a fireplace, clean and brush the 
the hearth before the room is swept. Never brush 
dust into a fireplace. Wash the hearth later. 

If there are registers raise them before sweeping, 
brush on a large paper, and wipe the pipe below. Cover 
the opening with newspaper and replace the register 
upside down. Remove the paper when the room is 
clean. 

If there are radiators, clean with a radiator brush 
and dust with an oiled cloth. 

Rugs and draperies should be hung over lines out 
of doors, or laid flat, and brushed well on each side. 
A light beater may be used on very firm heavy rugs but 
never a heavy beater. Do not shake nice rugs; it snaps 
them and breaks the edges. 



164 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Upholstered furniture should be well brushed, whipped 
occasionally in the open air, and then brushed vigor- 
ously. 

To Clean Furniture 

1. Highly Polished Surfaces, Piano or Desk: 

Utensils and materials — 

Provide oil (boiled linseed), 2 basins, ivory 
soap, warm water, soft cloths, soft brush. 
Method: 

Examine for breaks in finish. 

Cover cracks with oil; soak five or ten minutes. 
Rub off excess of oil. 
Wash a small portion at a time. 

Moisten a cloth — rub on ivory soap. 
Use circular motion. 
Rub hard and briskly. 

Rinse with clean water and a clean cloth. 
Rub at once with a dry cloth, until abso- 
lutely dry. 
Repeat till the whole surface is cleaned, then 
polish the whole surface. 

2. Spots: 

Finger marks — use warm water, a little soap, 

whiting for friction. 
Pencils mark — erase with a rubber. Use bread 

crust for wall paper. 
Match scratches — soft friction, whiting or salt. 
Fly specks — soapy water. 
Grease — absorb quickly with starch, soft cloth, 

or blotter. Wash with weak ammonia water. 
Alkali — use oil at once. 

3. Stains on Wood: 

Alcohol dissolves shellac. Use oil (sweet oil) at 
once. 



THE LIVING ROOM 165 

Heat, — rub in linseed oil and polish. 
Ink, — dissolve if possible. 

Absorb with blotter. 

Use oxalic acid on unfinished wood. 

Scrape if dry. 

Soak from finished wood. 

Rub with turpentine cloth, polish. 

To Polish Furniture 

Use: 

Equal parts of linseed oil and turpentine. 
Method: 

Rub on all the wood will absorb. 

Rub off surplus with a clean cloth. 

Rub DRY and polish with a chamois or a soft woolen 
cloth without lint. 

Test for dryness, — clean dry finger leaves no track. 

To Clean Copper and Brass 

Materials: 

Acids, vinegar, oxahc acid, butter, milk, lemon, etc. 

Whiting. 

Rottenstone and sweet oil. 

Commercial pastes. 
Methods: 

1. Clean with acid, follow by rubbing with whiting, 

wash carefully and dry. This gives a light 
finish, is quickly done; but all the acid must 
be removed or the metal will be quickly cor- 
roded again. 

2. Moisten rottenstone with sweet oil, apply with 

a soft cloth, and rub vigorously. Polish with 
flannel or chamois. Rub with dry whiting 
or tripoli. This gives a richer deeper finish 
than when acid is used. 



166 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Nickel: 

Clean with silver paste or whiting and alcohol. 
Wash always in hot, soapy water and dry at once. 
Do not let nickel stand when steam can condense 
on it. 



CHAPTER XII 
THE CHAMBERS AND BED MAKING 

Chamber Work 

Aim: 
Health; cleanliness of air and clothing. 
Comfort of occupant, obtained by — 

1. Circulation of air in room. 

2. Sunlight. 

3. Airing of bed. 

4. Sanitary utensils. 

5. Removal of waste. 

6. Care of utensils. 

Methods: 

1. To air the room. 

Open the windows top and bottom. 
Open doors for cross ventilation (heat down- 
stairs to be considered). 
Open the closet door. 
Time — as soon as possible, as long as possible. 

2. To obtain sunlight : 

Leave the shades high in the windows. 

(It is desirable that all the shades on one 
floor should be raised to the same height, 
so that the house looks well from the 
outside. The windows of bedrooms should 
not be covered by heavy curtains or closely 
drawn shades.) 

3. To air the bed. 

Consider time, service, number of beds. 



168 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

(a) Ideal. Remove all clothing separately. 

Place on chairs. 

Do not allow them to touch the floor. 

Run the hands inside the pillowcases. 

Stand the pillow on end. 

Lift the mattress and prop (free circula- 
tion of air). 

Turn the mattress each day. 
(6) Turn back all the clothing separately 
over the footboard and a chair. 

Lift the edge of the mattress and prop. 

Shake the pillow and stand it by the 
window. 

Turn the mattress often. 

4. Sanitary utensils : 

Beds without cracks and with few or no 

ridges. 
Smooth, varnished inside finish of commode. 
Uncracked surface of crockery. 

5. Removal of waste : 

Early attention, before the room is aired if 

possible. 
Utensils for cleaning: 

Two pails, one for waste, one for water. 

Brush. 

Three cloths, cleaning, drying. 

Soap, ammonia. 

Utensils for sweeping and dusting. 
Method, important. 

Empty the toilet utensils, waste water first, 
then toilet water. 

Rinse with cold water. 

Wash thoroughly with soap and hot water, 
scouring when necessary. 

Dry. 



THE CHAMBERS AND BED MAKING 169 

Clean the covers. 
Use separate cloths for each kind of 
utensil — not towels or face cloths 
6. Care of utensils: 

Order — cleanest first. 

Drinking water pitcher and glass, tooth 
brush mug and holder, large water pitcher, 
soap dish, bowl, jars and covers. 
Care — 
Water pitcher — empty, wash and refill 
every day or as often as time and service 
allow. 
Jars — 

Protect floors under jars when emptying 
and cleaning, wash carefully, rinse and dry 
the outside, scouring as often as time and 
service allow. Watch inside finish for cracks. 
Leave covers off or on — not ajar (breakage). 
Daily Care of Bedrooms: 
Order of work: 
Open beds — dispose of waste — air room — clean 
utensils — put away everything which is out of 
place — make beds — let dust settle — dust 
(according to time and service available). 
Arrange the room — 
All articles in exact order. 
Consider preference of occupant. 
Each day in the same way. 
Do not change arrangement of furniture without 

consulting or explaining to occupant. 
Leave windows open, or closed and locked. 
Straighten the rugs. 
Adjust shades and curtains. 
See that pictures hang evenly. 
See that match boxes are full. 



170 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

See that towels are in place. 
Close the closet door, bureau drawers, and all 
boxes. 

Bed Making 
Mattress: 

Cover under side to protect it from the springs. 
Box cover efficient; hard to launder and put on. 
Straight covers, tied at the ends and side, easy to 
launder, easily fitted. 
Sheets: 

Size — length of mattress plus twice its depth plus | 

yard to 1 yard, plus hems and shrinkage. 
108 inches none too long. 
Hem alike top and bottom, wear more evenly, 

confusing. 
Hems wider at top than bottom, uneven wear, more 
hygienic. 
Blankets: 
Single preferable, wear better, ease in handling and 
laundering. 

To Make Beds 

Method: 

Turn the mattress end for end one day and over side- 
wise the next. 

Straighten the mattress. 

Spread with pad (warmth and comfort). 

Spread the bottom sheet. 

Center of sheet in the center of the bed. 

Fold imder the mattress at the head. 

Stretch and tuck way under at the foot of the bed. 

Stretch at the sides and make square corners at the 
top and bottom. 

Tuck in the sides, stretching tight. 

Do not draw the weave out of a straight line. 



THE CHAMBERS AND BED MAKING 171 

Spread the top sheet with the hem a few inches above 

the top of the mattress. 
Tuck at the foot, way under the mattress. 
Blankets: 

Spread separately, top 9 inches from the top of mat- 
tress. 
Tuck in at the foot. 
Make square corners at the foot with the top sheet 

and all the blankets. 
Turn down the top sheet to protect the tops of the 

blankets. 
Stretch and tuck under the sides. 
If the blankets are double place the fold at the foot. 
A thin cover over the blankets keeps them clean at 

night. (A short sheet makes a good cover.) 
Spread: 
Place evenly on the bed. 
Arrange the foot and sides according to the style of 

bed and spread. 
STRETCH smooth; do not pat or smooth with hands. 
Diagonal corners may be made at the foot. 
Pillows: 

Place in the covers with the corners even. 

Never hold a pillow in the teeth or under the chin. 

Hold on the knee. 

Press the pillow round or flat as preferred. 

If flat, press on a table and stand as near upright as 

possible, with the seam hidden at the bottom. 
Extra Cover: 
Fold plainly at foot of the bed. 

To Prepare a Bed for the Night 

This must be done nicely or the room has a very 
unattractive appearance. 



172 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Remove the pillows and spread. 

Fold the spread in the creases and put aside in a 

clean place. 
Turn the clothes back to the middle of the bed 

from the corner and turn the corner underneath 

again, or turn down the sheet and blanket evenly 

about a foot below the pillows and clear across 

the bed. 
Untuck the clothes halfway down. 
Replace pillows flat and smooth. 
Arrange the extra cover on the foot of the bed, 

folded accordion fashion, so that the loose edge 

at the top can easily be pulled up on to the bed 

at any time in the night. 
Fold the nightdress and wrapper on the foot of the 

bed; place the slippers on the floor by the side 

of the bed. 
If the washstand has been used, make it neat again; 

empty the jars and refill the pitcher. 
Draw the shades. 

Guest Room 

Conveniences for the Guest Room: 
Pins. 

Sewing materials. 
Night fight. 

Table at the head of the bed. 
Books, stationery, ink and pens. 
Waste paper basket. 
Trunk rack. 

Closet: 
Handkerchief bag. 
Clothes bag. 
Rack for shoes. 



THE CHAMBERS AND BED MAKING 173 

Coat hangers. 
Wrapper. 
Attentions to Guest: 
Fresh flowers. 
Fu-e laid. 

Bureau drawers empty. 
Closets empty. 

All personal articles removed. 
Bed opened. 

Cold drinking water at night (covered). 
Gas lighted before bed time. 
Fire lighted in a.m. 
Fresh (hot) water in a.m. 

Problems for Consideration if Time or Service 
are Lacking 

How much time does chamber work take? 

One room? 

Whole house? 

Difference in time to make single or double beds? 

Difference in time if clothes are taken off the bed 
or left tucked in at the foot? 

Extra time for opening beds at night? 

Extra time for folding quilt at foot? 

Consider time, strength, and sanitation. 

Which process may be eliminated if time and strength 
forbid the ideal, and yet keep methods sanitary? 

Balance sanitation with overtaxed strength, with 
overfull hours. 

What shall you omit? 

Remember speeding is impossible for prolonged work. 

One bed may be made in four minutes when twenty 
minutes would be long enough for five beds. 

The time allowed should be for continuous, steady 
work — no hurry, no lagging. 



CHAPTER XIII 
THE BATHROOM AND STORAGE CLOSETS 

Care of the Bathroom 

Daily: 
Wash and dry all fixtures, tumblers, etc. 
Wash and dry the soapdishes, rinse the soap. 
Dust the floor, woodwork, and shelves. 
Straighten the towels and washcloths. 
Replenish toilet paper before it is necessary. 
Change towels at regular times or when there is 

special need. 
Put in clean towels before removing the soiled ones; 

then if they are forgotten no one is inconvenienced. 

Weekly or oftener: 
Wash and scour all fixtures. 
Give special attention to the chain and stopper of the 

bowl and tub. 
Flush and clean the overflow pipes. 
Use potash or sal soda solution in the toilet, tub, and 

bowl. (See note, page 213.) 
Polish the nickel fixtures. 

To Clean Bath-Room Fixtures 

Porcelain tub and bowl: not a natural surface, 
avoid scratching, chipping, cracking, sudden sharp 
changes of temperature. 

Materials: 
Naphtha soap, ivory soap, bon ami, whiting (insolu- 
ble, rinse pipes well). 



THE BATHROOM AND STORAGE CLOSETS 175 

Kerosene, bicarbonate of soda. 
For yellow stains hydrochloric acid. 

Method: 
Use little water. 
Rub naphtha soap on a cleaning cloth (try kerosene 

if naphtha soap proves ineffective). 
Scrub the inside of the tub, especially the water line. 
Rinse and dry. 
Pohsh the fixtures with whiting or bon ami. 

Toilet 

Materials: 

Bag and curved brush or tongs and soap paper, 
scouring powder, soap powder, hydrochloric 
acid for yellow stains, commercial cleaners are 
frequently good. Sulpho naphthol or lysol. 

Precautions: 

Scald bag and brush or tongs after use. Dry in 
the sunshine. Be careful not to burn the hands 
with hydrochloric acid. 

Process: 

Flush the bowl. Add strong soap powder solution. 
Stand ten to twenty minutes. Scour and scrub 
with the brush. Wash with suds and flush. 
Wash inside and out with hot suds and a cloth. 
Use hydrochloric acid for stains in the bottom of 
the toilet. Dip out the water and rub the stains 
with a cloth wet with scouring powder and hydro- 
chloric acid. Flush carefully. Put sulpho naphthol 
in the bowl and stand. Clean and oil the handle of 
the flush. Wipe all woodwork with a cloth with 
sulpho naphthol. Dry thoroughly and oil. Dry 
the bowl outside. Flush. (The sulpho naphthol 
may not disinfect, but it does insure a fresh odor.) 



176 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Plumbing. Personal Responsibility 

1. No refuse not easily soluble should reach the 

pipes; this includes hair, lint, flowers, rags, 
matches, newspapers, and any other solids not 
easily divided by water. 

2. Careful, complete flushing of the toilet; this should 

be not only an automatic act, but with assur- 
ance of completion. Flushing before use wets 
the sides of the hopper and helps in the complete 
removal of solid material. 

3. Clear water rinsing of all bowls after use; leaves the 

trap free from soiled water and prevents the 
odor of stale soap. 

4. No grease allowed to reach any pipes. 

Storage Closets 

Housemaid's Closet: 

Should contain only cleaning materials and utensils. 
Utensils should be clean and dry when put away. 
Brooms and brushes should hang by the handle. 
Waxed or oiled cloths should be shut in tight tin 

boxes. 
Keep turpentine, kerosene, naphtha and other liquids 

in tightly stoppered bottles. 
Bottles labeled and kept clean. 
Soap and powders kept in dishes or jars. 
Waste paper should be emptied into the paper can, 

never left in the closet. 
Carpet sweepers cleaned, vacuum cleaners cleaned 

and kept in the same closet with the attachments. 
Food Storage: 
Vegetable bins or boxes, sugar and flour barrels, 

raised from the floor; preferably on swinging 

bases (easily cleaned, easily reached). 



THE BATHROOM AND STORAGE CLOSETS 177 

Dry groceries stored in glass jars, crackers in tin cans. 

Nothing open or left about for mice. 

Nothing but food materials kept on food shelves. 

Everything possible labeled plainly. 

Dry foods should be kept dry and covered. 

Moist foods should not be stored unless canned or 
bottled. 
Linen Closets: 

Linen should be piled on shelves with all edges even. 

Articles of one kind and quality kept together. 

Articles of the same group near each other; example: 
sheets, pillowcases, mattress covers, mattress pads, 
spreads, and bureau covers, are all used to- 
gether and should be grouped on near-by shelves. 
Face towels, washcloths, and bath towels should 
be grouped together. 

When returned from the laundry linen should be 
examined for necessary repairs and breaks should 
be mended before the linen is put away. 

Clean linen should be put at the bottom of the piles 
to insure even wear. 

If bed linen is marked with the date when it is put 
into use, it is easier to judge whether it is wearing 
satisfactorily. 

The shelves of a linen closet should be cleaned and 
wiped with turpentine occasionally. (Keep fire 
or lighted lamps away from turpentine.) 

If blankets are stored with linen, they should be 
perfectly clean, wrapped in paper, inclosed in 
cotton bags, and marked plainly. 

Extra comforters and down puffs should be cleaned 
and stored in chests or drawers in cotton bags. 
Clothes Closets: 

A pole through the center of the closet is preferable 
to side hooks. 



178 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Put all clothing on hangers. 

Fine materials should be covered with protecting 

bags to keep out dust. 
Woolen clothes not in constant use should be cleaned 

and tied up in cotton bags. 
Hang the same kind of clothing together. 
Don't hang colored street clothes next to delicate 

house gowns; protect the latter with covers. 
Street clothes should be brushed before hanging in 

the closet. 
Waists or coats should be aired before hanging. 
Nothing damp should ever be put in a clothes 

closet. 
Soiled clothes removed as soon as possible. 
Shoes, etc., kept on a rack or in a shoe bag. 
Hats kept in boxes on shelves. 
The floors should be swept when the adjoining room 

is cleaned. 

Clothes Storage: 
Everything cleaned, wrapped in newspaper, put in 

boxes or bags, plainly labeled. 
A closet directory in card catalogue form is an easy 

way to find articles put away for a season. 
When cleaning wipe all floors and shelves with 

turpentine. (Keep fire or flame away from 

turpentine.) 

China Closets: 
Arrange the finest china and glass ware on the highest 

shelves. 
Cut glass should not be piled. 
Tall articles never placed in front of lower ones. 
Pile securely or not at all. 
Protect finest plates from each other with circles of 

Canton flannel. 



THE BATHROOM AND STORAGE CLOSETS 179 
Keep large silver pieces in colored Canton flannel 



Medicine Closets: 
Place medicines oftenest used on the front of the 

shelves. 
Those seldom used, at the back. 
Tie toy bells on the necks of bottles of poison and 

place them on the top shelf. 
If children can reach them remove to a locked cup- 
board. 
Make a list of the contents of the closet, giving the 

use (and antidote if poison), and fasten to the 

inside of the door. 
Empty bottles of special medicine when the need for 

their use is over. 
Do not keep drugs over a year unless sure they do 

not deteriorate. 
Wash and put away empty bottles. 
Keep a small supply of corks of assorted sizes and 

a small corkscrew in the closet. 

Sewing Closet: 

A sewing closet should have at least three drawers 

and four shelves; more if possible. 
Arrange the work basket and extra sewing supplies 

on the broad shelf on top of the drawers. 
Mending on the shelf above. 
Partly finished and new work on the next shelf. 
Fold all patterns nicely and file in a pasteboard letter 

file on the supply shelf. 
Use the top drawer for new materials. 
The middle drawer for white pieces, the bottom 

drawer for colored pieces, of materials still in use 

or usable. 
Keep the pieces well sorted. 



180 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

A fourth drawer for woolen and silk pieces is a great 

convenience. 
Watch woolen pieces for moths. 
A supply bag with small pockets, or a piece bag, may 

be fastened to the inside of the door, if shelf or 

drawer room is lacking. 
A sewing closet should be kept in order from day to 

day. 



CHAPTER XIV 

GENERAL CLEANING — SWEEPING, DUSTING 
Cleaning 

Cleaning is the removal of dirt — not changing its 
place. 
Sources of Dirt: 

Cellar — poorly ventilated, furnace dust. 

Kitchen — steam, greasy vapors, dust from fuel. 

Bathroom — steam. 

Laundry — steam. 

Bedrooms — dust from clothing, fluff from clothing 

and bedding. 
Finger marks. 
Handling. 
Clothing. 
Street sand — on shoes and skirts, or blown in by 

the wind. 
Removal must be without injury to surfaces. 
Methods of Removal: 

Sweeping, — removal of loose, coarse dirt, litter, 

and sand. 
Dusting, — removal of fine dirt, called dust. 
"Cleaning," — removal of dirt which has been 
moist and dried; example, spots or dust streaks 
on paint. 

Sweeping 
To partially prevent the need for sweeping: 
Remove dirt from the shoes and skirts outside of 
the house. 



182 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Eliminate fabrics (fluff). 
Pick up litter. 

Pur'pose: 

To gather and remove all coarse dirt and as much 
dust as possible. 

Aim: 
To accomplish with as little distribution of dust as 
possible. 

Choice, Care, and Use of Utensils for Sweeping 

Clean all utensils before putting them away. 
Long-handled Bristle Brush: 

Buy good quality, firm tufts of bristles. 

Expensive first cost, but wears well. 

Takes up more dust and its use is more sanitary 

than a broom. 
Push away from the sweeper. 
Use both sides of the brush evenly. (The handle 

should change sides.) 
Always hang free from the floor. 

Short-handled Bristle Brush: 

Choose as for other bristle brushes. 
Always hang by handle. 
Clean the bristles thoroughly after use. 
To clean Bristle Brushes: 

Shake out the dust, pick off hairs, lint, threads, etc. 
Wash occasionally in warm ammonia water and 
rinse in clear cold water. 

Dustpan: 
Long or short handled. The edge should be sharp, 

straight, and thin. 
Long-handled pan with a child's broom is desirable 



GENERAL CLEANING 183 

to take up litter, as it saves the back and does 

not scatter dust. 
Keep the pan clean. 
Carpet sweepers: 
Choose one with a removable brush with short 

bristles, set in tufts for spiral action. 
The brush should be set to extend below the pans. 
The dustpans should open easily with springs at each 

side. 
The interior should be smooth, preferably shellacked 

or painted. 
The handle should swing so that the sweeper may be 

pushed either way. 
To use: 

Push with the warp and draw back on the carpet. 

Use short, overlapping strokes with the woof. 

Use without heavy pressure. 
To clean the sweeper: 

Empty the pans into a damp newspaper. 

Remove hairs and threads from the brush with a 
buttonhook or scissors. 

Remove the brush occasionally and wash or clean it. 

Oil (with one drop of oil). 
Advantages : 

Does not scatter dust if kept dean. 

Does not wear the carpet. 
Disadvantages: 

Does not reach corners or edges of carpet. 

Careless use mars furniture and mopboards. 
Vacuum Sweepers or Cleaners: 
The safest, easiest, and most sanitary way to remove 

dust. 
Various makes and prices. 
Most of them effective. 



184 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Must be carefully cleaned after use. Follow direc- 
tions for cleaning with each utensil. 

Choose one which will take fine Utter as well as 
dust, if possible. 

Dry Mops: 

Fine dust gatherers. 

Hard to clean, hence unsanitary. 

Mop Handle: 
String mop 1 

Woven mop \ are all easily cleaned and renewed. 
Oiled mop J 
Objections: careless use mars woodwork, less easy 

to use than dry mop. 
Broom: 

Convenient, often desirable if covered, for dusting 

walls. 
Should not be used for sweeping floors; it scatters 

the dust. 
Select a broom light in weight and not too stiff, with 

many branchlets, few seed vessels or hard stalks, 

four rows of stitching, copper wire and tacks. 
To clean: 

Shake or wash out the dust. 

Boil occasionally; do not wet above the stitching. 
Hang free from the floor. 
Use both sides. 

Methods of Sweeping 

Flo&r or Linoleum: 

Cover the long-handled bristle brush with a slightly 

DAMP or oiled bag or square of cheese cloth. 
Sweep from you, using pressure to take up the dust. 
Keep the brush on the floor at the end of the stroke; 

raising the brush makes the dust fly. 



GENERAL CLEANING 185" 

Carpet: 
Pick up all litter. 

Wipe with a damp cloth on the brush. 
Sweep the edges and corners with a whisk broom. 
Use the carpet sweeper thoroughly. 
Wipe with a cloth dampened with ammonia and water. 
Position for Sweeping: 

Body erect, head up, mouth closed. 
To dispose of the Dirt: 
Dampen a newspaper with a straight edge, place the 

edge smoothly on the sharp straight edge of the 

dustpan. Tuck in the wet corners at the top, 

brush the dirt onto the paper, fold the dirt into the 

paper, and iburn. 
Use a soft bristle brush, as a whisk snaps the dust. 
Position for taking up Dirt: 
Back straight, bend the body at the knees and hips. 
Turn the face away from the dust as much as possible. 
Windows should be opened, if the wind will carry 

the dust out; closed if the wind blows in. Closed 

if there is contagious disease. 
Dangers from Sweeping: 
To other people — from scattered dust. 
To the sweeper — breathing disease germs into the 

lungs. Abrasions infected. 

Care of a Waxed Floor 

Daily: 

Sweep with a soft hair brush. 

Rub or wipe with a covered brush. 
Weekly: 

Rub all spots with kerosene (rewax if necessary). 

Polish with a weighted brush, covered with carpeting 
for the final polish. 



186 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Seasonal: 

Clean, — use a commercial cleaner, or Miss Parloa's 

Encaustic No. 2 or turpentine or wash with soap 

and water. 
Dry, rewax, and polish. 
Replace wear with new wax and keep the wax smooth. 

Utensils: 
Woolen cloths, cotton waste. 
Bristle brush, weighted brush, carpeting. 

TO OIL OR WAX FLOORS 

To oil or rewax: 
Preparation — 

Free the floors from dust. 

Free the room from dust. 

Clean the floor and free it from spots. 

Dry perfectly. 

Apply oil or wax with circular motion. 

Polish with the grain of the wood. 

Care of Utensils: 
Waxed or oiled cloths should be washed in soda 

solution and rinsed thoroughly. 
Stored in tight can when dry. 

Weighted brush should be covered when put away. 
Stand on the side of the weight when not in use. 
Cover with carpeting or a heavy woolen cloth if 

used on an oiled floor. 
Remove the brush from the weight to wash it. 
Wash in strong tepid ammonia water. Soak 

I hour. Rinse. 
Wipe dry as possible. 

Dry thoroughly before putting into the weight 
again. 



GENERAL CLEANING 187 

Care of Linoleum 

Sweep with a bristle brush. 

Wipe with darap cloth. 

Use a small amount of soap if necessary. 

Do not scrub with a brush. 

Once a week wipe with a cloth wet with part 
turpentine or kerosene, 1 part boiled linseed oil. 

Varnished when new and waxed hghtly every week, 
linoleimi wears much longer. 

Dusting 
Dust: 
There are many kinds, always light enough to be 
raised and wafted by the wind. 

1. Readily visible — settles quickly. 
Source: 

Street dust, fragments of sand, broken fibers 
of plants, etc., fine hairs, ashes, wool fibers, 
lime, soot, micro-organisms, pulverized ex- 
creta. 

2. Invisible except when illuminated, heaviest part 

settles. 
Source: 

Decaying plants, vegetables, animal substances, 
dried sputum, etc. 

Contains micro-organisms which thrive on 
moist surfaces, destroy organic matter, do 
not leave moist surfaces, become detached 
when dry, attach to other dust and settle. 

Aim: 
The health of the occupants. 
The appearance of the house. 
To attain health, prevention of dust is desirable. 



188 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Accomplished by the use of; 

1. Smooth surfaces, few grooves, not carved. 

2. Sanitary furnishing (heavy draperies and up- 

holstered furnitiu"e store dust). 

3. Preventive measures — sunlight, fresh air, soap, 

and water. 
Sources of infection are — 

Dust-laden air. 

Contact. 

Dust settling on food. 
Purpose: 

Dusting should result in the removal of dirt from the 

house without injury to person dusting or articles 

dusted, and without inconvenience to the occupants 

of the house. 
A dusted house is cleaner than a swept one. 
Dust once and then stop. Do not keep stirring the 

dust into the air. 
Still air clears itself in time, the weight of the dust 

is sufficient to carry it down. 
The excess of labor comes in dusting small articles, — 

therefore, eliminate useless articles, keep the floors 

well dusted, and dust cannot rise to settle on other 

articles. 
The ideal is not always possible. Perfect dusting 

every day is impossible and choice is often neces- 
sary. 
Still dust untouched is harmless. 

1. Dust first the places where air currents will move 

the dust — window sills and shades, etc. 

2. Places where there is personal contact — arms 

of chairs. 

3. Where dust may injure article — (highly pohshed 

surfaces). 

4. Storage places where insects may hide. 



GENERAL CLEANING 189 

5. Where dust interferes with purpose of articles — 

window panes, electric light globes, etc. 

6. Where the appearance is affected — the surface 

of the piano, the rockers of a chair, etc. 

UTENSILS FOR DUSTING 

Cheesecloth — cheap, easily cleaned, quickly dried. 
Patent dusters — expensive, not so easily cleaned. 
Lambs wool — hard to touch small parts of furniture, 

expensive, hard to clean. 
Chamois — expensive, easily spoiled. 
Cloths: 
Oiled or dampened. 
Use damp, not wet. 
To dampen — wet one half and wring, fold in the dry 

half and wring again. 
To oil Cloths: 
Turn the bottle against the cloth several times, fold 

and wring. 
Use kerosene — it is cheap, white, and ready at 

hand; has a disagreeable odor; but evaporates 

quickly. 

METHODS FOR DUSTING 

Floors: 

Catch the most dust. Level easiest to dust. 
If well dusted, save dust on other things. 
Dust most often disturbed as we walk. 
Special Utensils: 

Covered brush — cloth, fitted bag, or oiled mop. 

Covered broom — square of cheesecloth or bag 
of cotton flannel. 

Cloth in hand: effective, simple, hardest to use. 

Dry mops: hard to clean. 

Lambs wool dusters: expensive, hard to clean. 



190 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Process: push the brush over the floor with a long 
slow stroke from you. Do not shake the brush 
from the window. Pick off hairs and fluff and 
wash the cloth. 

Furniture: 

Oiled cloths benefit leather, wood, and metal. 

Damp cloths are best for painted surfaces. 

Wet cloths damage everything, unless the surface is 

absolutely dried after use. 
Soiled dusters are apt to scratch finish. 

Process: 
Wipe off the dust with a clean cloth, fold in the 

soiled portion. 
Wash the soiled duster, do not shake the dust into 
the air. 

Study: 

Physical effect of the process: the position of the 

body. 
The parts to be dusted: methods of reaching each 

part. 
If pressed for time, choose; dust — 1. points of 
contact; 2. horizontal surfaces; 3. all siurfaces. 
Books: 
To aid in dusting arrange as to height. Use an oiled 
or damp cloth (there must be no water left in the 
cloth). 
Methods: 

On the shelves — tip back a handful, dust from the 

binding to the edge. 
Whole book — work at a window, use both hands, 
thumbs up, fingers placed to protect the binding 
at the back, open in different places, clap to- 
gether, hold in one hand, and snap the leaves. 



GENERAL CLEANING 191 

Gilt or rough edges, blow from the back into a 
damp cloth. 

Wipe the book all over. 
Pictures: 
Use a cloth to protect the frame and glass. 
Steady with the left hand. 
Wipe the frame, then the glass. 
Care should be taken not to streak the glass. 
Use a small pointed brush to get the dust from 

carved frames. 

Cleaning 

Aim: 

The removal of dirt which has dried. 

Must be moistened, softened, and rubbed off. 
Requires something to dissolve the dirt. 
General Rules: 

Remove spots from paint as soon as they are dis- 
covered. 

It is much easier to keep paint clean if one does not 
wait for general cleaning days. 

Always take the dry dust from paint before cleaning, 
otherwise it makes the paint streaked and muddy 
and it is much harder to clean. 
Materials for General Use: 

Chamois or domet flannel. 
Soft cloths (flannel, cheese cloth, crash, old cotton, 
not linty). 

Skewers. 

Scrubbing brushes, soft and stiff. 

Pail and basins. 

Oils — kerosene, boiled linseed, sweet oil. 

Soap — frictional and cleaning (not too strong). 

Borax, ammonia, turpentine, tripoU, whiting, scour- 
ing powder, beeswax. 



192 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Care of Cleaning Utensils: 
To clean chamois: 
Wash in gasolene, or soak in tepid water with ivory 

soap or two tablespoons of ammonia to one 

quart of water. 
Squeeze; do not rub hard. 
Use a brush with gentle rubbing for stains. 
Wipe off the dirt. 

Rinse many times, reduce the ammonia each time. 
Squeeze and pull into shape. 
Dry in a medium temperature. 
Stretch and pull gently until soft. 
To wash dusters or cleaning cloths: 

Rinse well and rub naphtha soap all over them; 

roll and stand in a little cold water one-half 

hour. 
Rub spots until clean, rinse in cool water until free 

from soap, and hang (out of doors if possible) to 

dry. 
To wash oiled or waxed cloths : 

Use woolen cloths for waxing, oiling, or polishing. 

Do not throw them away — when really dirty, 

cleanse them. 
Dissolve I cup washing soda in one gallon of boil- 
ing water. 
Soak the cloths in this one hour, stirring them 

with a stick several times. 
Add a gallon of boiling water and work the cloths 

about with the stick several minutes. 
Drain, add soapsuds, and work again. 
Rinse in clear hot water and then in two quarts of 

warm water with a tablespoonful of linseed oil 

in it. 
Squeeze out the water and hang to dry without 

wringing. 



GENERAL CLEANING 193 

To clean scrubbing brushes: 

Rinse well and remove all threads, lint, etc. 
Rinse in clean water and stand to dry on the 

side so the water will not settle into the wood. 
Do not shut them up in a box or closet until dry. 

General Method: 
Use a circular motion for cleaning. 
Rub with the grain to dry. 
Always wipe with a damp cloth. 

(Scour with frictional material.) 
Wash, rinse, wipe dry. 
Avoid — Too much water. 

Dirty water. 

Leaving wood wet. 

Leaving corners wet. 

Water and dirt in cracks. 

Cleaning Woods 

Unfinished Wood: 
Requires actual scouring to remove dirt from pores. 
Special Materials. 
Small amount of liquid. 
Frictional material, no soap. 
(Acids lighten the color, alkalies darken wood.) 
Stiff brush. 

Method: 

Wipe with a damp cloth. 

Scrub with a circular motion, to scour. 

Wash and rinse. 

Dry with grain of the wood. 
To remove stains: 

Caused by rain, melting frost, flower pots, use oil 
or turpentine; if oak wood, use oxalic acid. 



194 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Caused by soot, which is greasy and insoluble in 
water, cover with dry oatmeal or sawdust, 
brush up, then use soap and water. 

Finished Wood: 
The surface finish must not be broken, no scouring 

possible. 
Materials: 

Soft cloth. 

Oil. 

Weak soap suds (must not dry on). 

Borax. 
Method: 

Clean only small portions at a time. 

Do not use too much liquid. 

Dry perfectly — at once. 

Enameled Woods: 
Materials: 

Hot water, weak ammonia, mild soap. 
Method: 
As for finished wood. 

Stained Wood: 
Materials: 

Oiled cloth, slightly damp. 
Method: 

Rub the surface hard. 

Shellac or Varnish: 
Materials: 
Avoid — alcohol, water, alkah (soda and am- 
monia). 
Use — kerosene, with powdered tripoli for spots. 
Method: 

Use very light pressure. 
Dry perfectly. 



GENERAL CLEANING 195 

Natural Wood: 
Materials: 
Turpentine for spots, oil for gloss. 
Paraffin oil and turpentine once a year. 
If dry and cracked, use boiled linseed oil once in 

two weeks till the color is restored. 
When sun or great heat dries out finish, use frequent 

applications of boiled linseed oil, well rubbed in. 

Example, outside doors several times a year. 
Method: 
Remove spots. 

Rub in the oil and turpentine and stand. 
Rub well until dry. 
Paint (colored paint wears off more quickly than white). 
Materials: 
Soft cloths. 

Flannel for utensils and rubbing. 
Old knit underwear for rinsing and drying. 
Skewers for corners. 
Soap mild (strong soap turns white paint yellow 

in time). 
Fine frictional material, whiting, or Dutch Cleanser. 
Kerosene is very good; but used too often will 

turn white paint yellow. 
Warm, clear water. 
Two basins. 
Methods; 
Wet a cloth in clean soapy water and wring nearly 

dry. 
Rub the paint, and if this does not remove the dirt 

use a fine friction. 
Rinse well with the clear water and dry. 
Change the water often. 
Do not try to clean with dirty water. 



196 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

When using kerosene, moisten the cleaning cloth 
with kerosene and rub the paint until clean. 

Wipe dry with another cloth. 

Leave the windows open until the odor is gone. 
Waxed Surfaces: 
Must be kept polished. 

Clean with turpentine or kerosene on a cloth. 
Replace the wax and rub well. 
Water allowed to stand on a waxed surface makes 

BLACK spots. 
Hot water takes off wax. 

Cleaning Windows 

Clean windows have been called ''the hall mark of 
respectability." 
Need: 

Children handle them; there is danger from contact. 

Dust and condensed vapors interfere with Ught. 
To avoid the Necessity of Frequent Cleaning : 

1 . Ventilate the house while cooking or washing — the 

gases and steam will escape before condensing. 

2. Dust the window panes daily. 
Utensils : 

Skewers, cotton flannel cloths, cheese cloth, chamois, 

crumpled paper. 
Materials: 
Bon Ami, plus water or ammonia waten or alcohol. 
Whiting, plus water or ammonia water or alcohol. 
Water with kerosene (two tablespoons of kerosene 

to a pail of water). 
Kerosene (good polish in winter). 
Soapsuds, plus much rubbing and rinsing (apt to 

leave the glass cloudy). 
Alcohol (in winter). 



GENERAL CLEANING 197 

Method: 

Brush the bUnds or screens. 

Dust the panes. 

Clean the woodwork (use skewers in the corners). 

Oil the woodwork if necessary, (protect the glass 

from the oil). 
Lower the outer sash far enough for the arm to go 

down outside; reach as far as possible. 
Wash, rinse, dry, and polish; drop way down. 
Raise the inner sash and from above clean the top 

of the outside. 
Finish the outer sash from below; raise to position. 
Finish the outside of the inner sash from below. 
Clean the inside of both sashes. 

Note: 

There are two methods of cleaning the glass: 

1. By the use of dry cleaners; use Bon Ami or 

whiting with water or alcohol. 
Apply to the glass in an even paste. 
Allow this to dry and polish the glass with soft 

chamois or paper. 
Objection — the fine powder which flies over 

the furnitiu"e and stays on the window 

frames. 

2. By the use of liquid cleaners. Use any of the 

materials as given above. 
Dust, wash, rinse, dry and polish as for any 
glass ware. 
Avoid : 

Dripping water, it streaks the glass. 

Soap, not rinsed off, makes glass cloudy. 

Sun on the glass, streaks the glass and is bad for the 

eyes of the worker. 
Linty cloths. 



198 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Use: 

Tepid water; cold does not dissolve the grease. 

Especial care in corners. 
F(yr Spots: 

Fly specks, — the smooth edge of a coin or alcohol. 

Paint — turpentine. 

Putty — scraping. 

Whitewash — rub with vinegar. 

Mirrors 

Dust well and often. 

Clean with alcohol (use care not to let it run under 
the frame). 

Picture Glasses 

Protect the frame. 

Use alcohol or ammonia water (use care not to let 
it run under the frame). 

Dry carefully, polish with chamois or crumpled paper. 

Marble 

The finished surface keeps the marble looking well, 
and partially nonabsorbent, — avoid friction, keep 
the surface polish as long as possible. 

Use soft cloths and brushes. 

If worn, scour with sapolio or whiting. 
Spots: 

For grease use Fuller's Earth for twenty-four hours. 

Avoid acids; they remove the surface. 

To smooth use emery paper, powdered emery, or 
pumice and rub with a circular motion; finish 
with whiting. 



CHAPTER XV 
TO OPEN AND CLOSE A HOUSE 

Begin early to plan: 

Calculate food supplies; reduce them to lowest possi- 
ble terms. 

Plan for the safety of the house and its furnishings. 

Plan for the health of the members of the family on 
their return. 

Plan for the convenience of the family on return. 

Consider the length of time the house is to be 
closed. 

Consider the time of year, — winter, summer, or 
longer time. 
Dangers to a Closed House: 

1. Fire: 

Matches — leave only a few, in a tight metal 

box, in the front hall. 
Electricity — safest to disconnect. 
Gas — safest to disconnect the meter; leaks 

may occur and cause an explosion. 
Spontaneous combustion — leave no piles of 

paper or old cloth. 

2. Water supply: 

Leaking faucets, splitting of brass pipes. 

Freezing in winter. 

Lead pipes sag and may leak; thirsty rats 

gnaw lead pipes. 
Safest to shut off; do it yourself if it can be 

done in the cellar. Notify authorities if it 

must be done at the street. 



200 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Open all faucets and allow them to run 
when the water is turned off; this will 
drain the pipes. Be careful to have a 
pail under the waste pipe near the shut-off 
so that the water will not run into the 
cellar when the cock is closed and the pipes 
drained. 

3. Waste pipes: 

The water seals in the traps evaporate if left 
unused a long time (two to four weeks). To 
PREVENT, flush and cover with oil (olive or 
lubricating oil) ; this will also prevent mosqui- 
toes breeding in the water. 

Water seal freezes. To prevent, disconnect 
the fixtures and plug the pipe, or displace 
the seal with oil, glycerine, or molasses. 

4. Roof leaks: 

Walls and furnishings spoiled. Have inspection 
made before leaving a house for a long time. 

5. Dampness : 

Mildew on fabrics. 
Rust on metals. 
Corrodes silver. 

Avoid by care in regard to all source of mois- 
ture. 

6. Squirrels (great danger in summer camps). 

They make nests in mattresses, clothing, rugs. 

Leave no open spaces for entrance. 

Cover the chimney top with a weighted board 

or a canvas cap. 
Hang clothing and bedding over lines. 

7. Birds, mosquitoes, flies, bats (also troublesome 

in camps). 
Cover the top of the chimney and any other 
openings. 



TO OPEN AND CLOSE A HOUSE 201 

8. Burglars: 

Store silver outside of the house. 

Leave no food about the house. 

Store very valuable fabrics outside the house. 

Post burglar insurance. 

Leave open shutters on each floor. 

Explain the situation and the position of 

things to the policeman on the beat or to 

observant neighbors. 

9. Insects, vermin: 

In furnishings and fabrics. 
Woodwork and mattresses. 
To prevent, — leave no dirt, crumbs, or food supphes 
about the house. Protect all fabrics as carefully as 
possible. Allow the sun to come into the house. 
Special Care should be given to: 

1. The Heaters: 

Clean, remove all ashes, free pipes, etc., from 
soot. 

Oil with lard, or in case of furnace paint out- 
side surface. 

Take furnace smoke pipes down. Prevents 
rusting, also prevents petty thieves from 
building fires. 

2. Furniture: 

Cover from the dust. 

3. Pictures: 

Cover on the wall. 

4. Expensive glassware: (for a long absence). 

Wrap, mark, pack in a box or barrel. 

5. Books on open shelves: 

Cover with paper which folds over and behind 
each row of books. 

6. Chandelier : 

Dust and cover. 



202 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

7. Brasses: 

Andirons: 

Polish and wind with cloth or paper. 
Curtain poles: 

Wind with paper. 
Small pieces: 

Desk sets, etc., wrap separately. 

8. Iron chandelier or andirons: 

Rub with oil. 

9. Furs: 

Cold storage is economy. Moth eggs cannot 
hatch. 

10. Fabrics: 

Linen, cotton, table linen, bed linen, clothing, 
curtains — clean, not starched, preferably 
not ironed. 

Woolen : blankets, clothing, and underwear — 
air thoroughly, clean, free from grease. 
Hang where the sun can come in, sepa- 
rately in an open place, cover with sheets, or 
in cotton or tar bags on lines across a room. 
Pack in boxes Uned with newspapers, in a 
cedar chest or closet, or pack with gum 
camphor or moth balls in tight drawers 
or trunks. Wrap each piece in newspaper 
and mark. 

11. Rugs: 

Clean, roll and cover or spread on newspapers 
and pile with papers between, cover with 
cotton or newspaper. The newspapers should 
be folded over the edges. Rolled rugs should 
be raised from the floor on chairs or tables. 

12. Carpets: 

Thoroughly clean, roll with camphor or a 
substitute. 



TO OPEN AND CLOSE A HOUSE 203 

If left on the floor, vacuum clean, remove 
tacks and powder the edges with camphor 
or insect powder. 

13. Mattresses: 

Cover the springs to prevent rust. Raise the 
the mattresses from the springs and cover 
with sheets. 

14. Pillows: 

Hang by the corners from a line and cover or 
put in tight bureau drawers. 

15. Shades: 

Brush and wipe free from dust. Roll close 
and cover with paper. If it is desirable to 
leave shades at the windows, use old ones 
if possible. The sun will fade and change 
the color and rot the fabric. 

Actual Closing 

Examine the plumbing. 

Examine all food storage places. 

Leave everything clean and dry, free from crumbs, 

free from food. 
Dispose of all fat. 
Protect soap from mice. 
Allow some light in each room, preferably at the top 

of the window. 
Close the windows and doors on the lower floor 

with shutters if desirable. 
Admit air, by dropping a window a few inches at 

the top and fasten with brass bar. 
Leave the windows on the upper floors unshuttered 

and, if possible, with old shades or white cotton 

to keep out the sun. 



204 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

INVENTORY 

Make three lists of everything in house. 

1. Owner. Useful for — 1. Insurance. 

2. Caretaker. 2. Burglary. 

3. Inside the house 3. Accident. 
Insurance: 

Have fire and burglar insurance. Enlist service and 
interest of policeman on the beat. 
Keys: 

Family, caretaker, policeman (if desirable). 

To Open a House {short absence) 

Have fires built before your arrival if possible. 
Open every window. 

Turn on the water in the cellar. Open the faucets. 
Open the windows in the cellar. 
Flush every trap in the house. 
Build fires. 

Dust the woodwork and floors. 
Open the beds. 
Uncover articles of furniture. 
Unpack the bedding — air, dry, sun. 
Unpack silver, etc. 
(Use of Usts apparent.) 

To Open a House (long absence) 

Connect all pipes and meters, electricity, gas, and 
water. 

If plumbers are necessary, notify them ahead of 
time and make an appointment for the hour of arrival 
or have the caretaker attend to it. Proceed as after a 
short absence. 



CHAPTER XVI 
HOUSE INSPECTIONS 

House Inspection 

Before renting or buying: 
Study — 
The sunshine plan. Do you get the sun in the 

rooms when it is most important? 
Arrangement of rooms. Are they pleasant to 

live in, comfortable to work in, light, easily 

cared for? 
Examine — 
The underpinning, leaders, blinds, and fasten- 
ings. 
Paint — inside and out. 
Ceilings and floors. 
Doors — the knobs, stop knobs, sticking doors, 

locks and keys, door screens. 
Heat, plumbing — kind, condition, failure to 

heat certain rooms completely? effectively? 
Windows — cords and fastenings. Screens. 
Gas burners — tips and shades. 
Registers — screens, and closings. 
Skylights — look for signs of leaks. 
Cellar — air, hght (day, evening), walls, stairs, 

floors, dampness, screens. 

Position of fuel, refuse, furnace, size of coal 
bin. 

Position of meters and shut-off cocks (water, 
gas, and electricity). 



206 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Consider: 

1. Whether the results of the inspection on the 

whole make it wise to hire, or whether condi- 
tions are so bad that constant discomfort 
would result. Balance every advantage with 
every disadvantage. 

2. Whether the conditions are so unfavorable that 

the cost of repairs would make the cost of 
purchase prohibitive or unwise. 

Seasonal House Inspection 

Spring: 

Painting inside. Papering. 

Kalsomining ceilings. Whitewashing cellar. 

Floors and other wood finish. 

Glazier work. 

Carpenters' repairs — leaders, coal bin, doors, blinds. 

Gas pipes. 

Plmnbing — drainage, faucets (new washers). 

Disposal of waste — house and cellar. 

Furnace — cleaning and repairs. 

Carpets and rugs — mended and cleaned or re- 
placed. 

Curtains. Screens. 
Fall: 

Outside painting. 

Chimney — mortar top, repointed. 

Foundations, sills, steps. 

Roof work — all leaks, shingles, tin, skyUghts, 
gutters. 

Stove flues, clear. 

Repairs on furniture. 

Gas and plumbing — inspection for safeguard. 

Replacing of furnace pipes. Inspection of radiators. 

Mattresses renovated and window shades turned. 



HOUSE INSPECTIONS 207 

Window cords. 

In some cases it does not matter whether repairs 
are made in the Spring or Fall; in other cases it makes 
a very decided difference either in cost, convenience, or 
permanence. 
For example: 
Outside painting stands better if done in the Fall. 
Inside painting is less disagreeable if done in the 
early Spring, when the windows may be open: 
but before flies and insects are about. 
Good Records to keep: 

The cost of materials and work for — 
Papering (also the way of calculating the amount 

of paper required). 
Carpentering. 

Plastering, whitewashing, kalsomining. 
Cleaning of heating systems and flues. 
Mattress renovating. 
Plumbing, drainage, gas fitting. 
Floor finishing. 
Painting, inside work. 
Glazier work. 
Outside painting. 
Removal of waste. 

Addresses of workmen who have proved satis- 
factory. 



CHAPTER XVII 
SMALL REPAIRS, PLUMBING TROUBLES 

Small Repairs 

Provide a tool box containing a good hammer, screw 

driver, awl, wrench, small saw, nails, tacks, heavy 

scissors, wire, bit, chisel, and any other tools you 

require. Putty knife and glass cutter are useful. 

In the absence of a ''Handy Man" try what you can 

do yourself. 
When you fail send for a carpenter. 
Squeaking Doors: 

A drop of oil on each hinge will usually stop a squeak. 
Sticking Doors: 

Avoid planing white wood doors. Shrinking and 

expansion continue. 
Tightening the screws of the hinges will frequently 
stop a door from sticking. 
Loose Door Handles: 

Replace the worn screw with one slightly larger. 
Locks: 

Should be oiled frequently. Oil the key and turn it 
several times in the lock and the strikers will turn 
more easily. Tighten loose screws. 
Holes in Woodwork: 

Fill with putty, plaster of Paris, or sawdust and glue. 
Gas Fixtures: 

Emergency leaks — detect with soapsuds, stop with 
sealing wax or soap. Do not look for gas leaks 
with flames. 



SMALL REPAIRS, PLUMBING TROUBLES 209 

Sagging Blinds: 
Push back into shape. Screw on kon angles at the 
corners. 

Glazier Work: 
May be done at home. Saves glass as well as money. 
Have glass perfectly level. 

Masonry: 
Temporary repairs may be made with Portland 
cement. 

Window Cords: 

May be changed if proper pockets have been left in 
window frames. 

Unscrew the protection molding and take out the 
weights. Change the cord, threading it care- 
fully over the pulley. The weight nearest the 
room is for the lower sash. Take care that the 
new cords are the proper length and are not 
twisted. Replace the molding and screw it tight. 

Rattling Windows: 

Remove the window fastening from one side and re- 
place it just far enough back to bring the windows 
close together. 

Screw the side moldings tight, and if the windows 
still rattle use small wedges at the side or between 
the sashes. 

Sticking Windows: 
Remove the molding. Loosen the frame. Rub 
the frame with hand soap or paraffin and replace. 

Window Shades: 
If soiled at the bottom remove from the roller and 
reverse; hem the top, tack the bottom on the roller, 
and use again. 



210 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Furniture: 
To glue — remove all old glue from both surfaces. 
Melt the glue in a hot water bath; if too thick, 
thin with vinegar, not water. Apply as thin a 
layer of glue as possible, to slightly warmed sur- 
faces. Fit the edges together perfectly. Apply 
EVEN pressure and continue the pressure until 
the glue is dry. Leave the excess glue until dry; 
then scrape it off or soften with vinegar. 
To refinish furniture — take off the handles or knobs. 
Remove the old finish by use of good varnish or 

paint remover. 
Rub with sand paper, first fine then finer — finish 

with emery paper. 
Apply reliable stain — then varnish; when dry rub 
down again, using oil and pumice or sandpaper. 
When smooth, wax; rub vigorously to get a soft 

finish. 
Replace the handles and knobs. 
To paint Furniture: 
Remove the old finish as before. 
Rub smooth and paint with several coats of paint. 
Do not add a second coat until the first is dry. 
Finish with a coat of enamel paint. 
If the various coats of paint are carefully rubbed down 
with emery paper, the result will be a better finish. 
Sagging Cane Seats: 

Turn the chair upside down and lay a wet cloth on 
the under side of the seat. If only beginning to 
stretch, this will shrink it tight again. 
Painting: 
Buy ready mixed paints. Name color may be 
untrustworthy; test before using. Thin with 
turpentine (carefully). Stir from the bottom with 



SMALL REPAIRS, PLUMBING TROUBLES 211 

a stick. Keep stirred as you use it. Remove the 
loose hairs from the brush. Work back and forth 
to loosen the hairs. If hairs come out while 
painting, remove them at once from the painted 
surface. Too wide a brush spreads paint unevenly. 
Saturate the brush; then remove all the paint 
possible. Take the last stroke with the grain of 
the wood. Protect other surfaces with thin 
sheet of metal or pasteboard. Dry each coat 
PERFECTLY before the next is put on. Start 
with a clean, smooth, dry surface, dusted and 
free from grease. 

Wall Paper: 
Paste down loose corners. Save surplus paper for 



Fade patches before pasting. 

If paper is faded, but not torn, paint with cold 
water paint (kalsomine); it is inexpensive, easy 
to apply, not durable, will not wash, but can be 
renewed. 

Plumbing Troubles and Remedies 

WATER HAMMER 

If there is a water hammer or banging in the pipes, 
have an extension of the supply pipes above or near the 
faucets in the lower story. These extensions or air 
chambers should be 1^ or 2 feet long. A water hammer 
in a lead pipe strains the pipe and gradually bulges 
it until it bursts. If a water hammer returns after 
extensions are put in, shut off the water at the stop- 
cock inside the cellar wall and drain the water from the 
pipes. When the water is let into the pipes again, the 
air chambers will be filled with air and once more 
effective. 



212 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

DKIPPING FAUCETS 

Old-fashioned ground cocks can be repaired only by 
replacing the faucet. Compression cocks may have 
leather, fiber, or rubber washers renewed. Shut the 
water from the faucet either by a special cock near 
the faucet or, failing, that at the cellar. If it is a hot 
water faucet the supply of water from the tank must 
be shut off. When water is shut off in the cellar, 
there will be water which will drain from the waste 
pipe; see that it does not injure anything. 

Unscrew the top of the faucet with a wrench if 
necessary. Unscrew the spindle and draw it out; 
unscrew the washer from the bottom of the spindle and 
replace with another washer. Provide half-inch and 
five-eighths of an inch washers for various size faucets. 

BALL COCKS 

The inlet of a modern water closet tank is regulated by 
a ball cock and float. The ball float rests on the surface 
of the water, and when the water is at its highest point 
the ball has closed the cock and the water is shut off. 

Leakage through a ball cock is often slow and hardly 
noticed, but is costly and should be remedied. 

The washer may be worn and allow the water to 
trickle through, or the rod which connects the ball with 
the cock may become bent with the upward pressure 
of the water. In this case the water finally reaches 
the level of the overflow before it is shut off. If in- 
spection shows this to be the case the rod may with 
care be bent back to its proper position. If the rod 
is straight and there is still an overflow the cause is 
probably either a worn washer or some foreign sub- 
stance between the washer and the metal. Shut off 
the water; take off the rod, which is usually held in 
place on the spindle of the ball cock by a cap screwed 



SMALL REPAIRS, PLUMBING TROUBLES 213 

over it. Remove the spindle and clean or replace 
the washer. If the float is submerged the ball itself 
probably leaks; if it is a copper ball the water may be 
drained out and the hole soldered. This sort of leak 
can be stopped temporarily by tying up the ball to 
keep it above the water line. 

The outlet of a modern tank is regulated by a stopper 
which is lifted when the chain is pulled. This stopper 
may be a soft rubber ball or a flat valve; in either 
case the arrangement is such that the flow of water 
from the tank is automatic and after the chain is 
once pulled is not dependent upon the length of time 
the chain is held. 

In the type of tank which has the rubber ball as 
stopper there is sometimes trouble due to the catching 
of the wire which holds the ball or to the fact that the ball 
itself becomes worn or soft and does not slip into place 
easily. In this case the water continues to flow into 
the flush pipe until the ball is pushed down into posi- 
tion. When this trouble appears, it is evident from 
the rushing sound, and the amount of water which 
pours into the closet bowl. These balls are easily 
obtained and replaced without hiring a plumber. 
Notes: 

In using caustic potash solution in the pipes of a 
porcelain or porcelain-lined sink, care must be 
taken not to let the potash come in contact 
with the porcelain as it will eat into the finish. 
When planning the plumbing in your own house 
insist that every faucet or toilet fixture have a 
shut-off near it, controlling the supply of water 
to that faucet. This makes a water famine all 
over the house, because of the disabiUty of any 
one fixtxu-e, unnecessary. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

THE READING OF GAS AND ELECTRIC METERS 

To Read a Gas Meter 

Gas is measured by the cubic foot, and the charge is 
for each thousand cubic feet. The number of cubic feet 
is recorded on the index, which is in dial form on the 
front of the meter. 

In reading always take the last figure the hand has 
passed and read the numerals in sequence, beginning 
with the highest dial. If the pointer is between two 
numbers always take the smallest number. 




Each division Each division Each division 
of this dial de- of this dial de- of this dial de- 
notes 10,000 notes 1000 feet. notes 100 feet, 
feet. 

How TO Read a Gas Meter. 

It is never necessary to reset a meter index; when the 
pointer on the highest dial reaches zero all the pointers 
revert to zero and the index resets itself. 

Take a reading each month as near the time when the 
Company reads as possible. Keep a record of the read- 
ings and deduct the amount from the next reading. The 
difference will represent the amount of gas consumed 
during the period between readings and your bill for 
the month can easily be checked. 



READING GAS AND ELECTRIC METERS 215 

To Read an Electric Meter 

Electricity charges are for the number of kilowatt 
hours used. 

An ampere is the measure of electrical current. 

A volt is the measure of electrical pressure. 

A watt is the measure of electrical power. 

The voltage and amperes are marked on apparatus; 
the volts X the amperes equal the watts. 

The number of watts marked upon apparatus indi- 
cates the amount of electric power which will be used 
in one hour. A kilowatt hour is 1000 watts burned or 
used for one hour. 

To read the meter read the dials as from a gas meter 
(in kilowatt hours instead of cubic feet). Keep the 
records in order to find the amount used in a given 
time. 

Cautions 

Do not use apparatus requiring more voltage than 
your wiring supplies. The usual voltage for private 
houses is 110; increased voltage usually doubles that, 
220. 

There are two kinds of current — direct and indirect 
or alternating. See that your apparatus is right for 
your current. Heating apparatus may be used on 
either. Power apparatus must usually be adjusted 
to one type, though there are universal motors which 
can be used on either current. 

Make yourself familiar with the different circuits in 
your wiring. When there is no chart of the circuits turn 
on all the lights and unscrew one fuse after the other, 
noticing which lights go out as each circuit is broken. 
Keep a record of these tests and you can easily tell 
which fuses must be replaced if one burns out. 



216 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

This chart and record will be valuable for the use of 
the electrician as well as the occupants of the house. 

When a fuse burns out there is a cause for it, and if 
that cause is not apparent to you an electrician should 
be asked to find and remedy the cause. 

You may replace the fuse temporarily and have the 
use of the lights. If the wires were short circuited 
the new fuse will blow out, but that will do no harm. 
It is well to keep several new fuses in the box for emer- 
gencies and to discard at once all old fuses. 

Remember, if you cannot account for the burning out 
of a fuse, you should have in an expert who can do so 
and remedy the cause, not simply replace the fuse. 

To Estimate the Cost of Electric Lighting 

Multiply the wattage of each lamp by the number of 
hours you will average to burn that light each day. 
Add these totals and multiply by the number of days 
in the month. Reduce this total to kilowatt hours 
and multiply by the amount charged per kilowatt 
hour. 

To Reduce the Cost of Electric Lighting 

Reduce the wattage of your lamps to the smallest 
amount possible. Two 25 watt lamps are usually as 
satisfactory as one 60 watt lamp. A 40 watt lamp is 
almost always possible instead of a 60 watt lamp in a 
small room. For close work a 25 watt lamp will give as 
good results as the larger ones and 15 watt lamps can 
usually be substituted for the larger ones in passage- 
ways, closets, and toilet rooms. 

The nitrogen-filled bulbs give more and better 
Ught than the regular bulbs, but the original cost is 
more. 

Old carbon lamps should be discarded. A 16 candle 



READING GAS AND ELECTRIC METERS 217 

power carbon bulb burns 56 watts at its best, 60 watts 
when old, and gives far less light than a 40 watt Mazda. 
There are at present sockets which may be adjusted 
so as to control the amount of electricity burned and 
reduce the wattage in a high watt bulb. These are 
cheaper to use than the old type of adjustable bulbs 
and give better light at all times and new bulbs may 
be put in when the old ones burn out. 



CHAPTER XIX 

PROGRAM OF WORK 

It is better to have a plan which will cover the im- 
portant work and break it than to work from horn* to 
horn" heedlessly, attending to every nonessential which 
thrusts itself forward. 

Objects: 

Accomplishment of work. 

Time saved. 

Strength conserved. 

Accomphshment of essentials, elimination of the un- 
important details. 

Methods: 
Consider all. 
Choose the best for your purpose. 

Requirements: 
To do satisfactory work. 
Get good results. 
The use of the least time. 
The use of a reasonable amount of strength. 

Systems: 
Avoid complicating systems. 
Programs must be flexible. 

Work: 
Make program for maids: 
Weekly. 
Daily. 



PROGRAM OF WORK 219 

Weekly program should include: 

Hours of work. 

Special work each day. 

Free time. 
Daily program: 

Hours for regular work. 

Hoiu-s for special work. 

Free time. 
Program for housekeeper: 

Daily routine. 

Order of work rather than hours for the work. 

Allow for interruptions. 
Season's program, month or more: 

Vary week's program to fit. 

Special work planned definitely by weeks. 

Programs for Housekeeper or Maid should he: 

(a) Practical, filling requirements, setting a standard. 
(6) Considerate of self, family, maids. 

(c) Adaptable, to unchangeable conditions, — wood, 

coal, gas. 
to emergencies, — weather, market supply, no 

water, 
to changing conditions, — lack of service, new 

utensils, new facts. 

(d) Insistent on essentials, promptness, cleanliness, 

order. 

(e) With recognition of 

Family: habits, duties, number. 
House: arrangement, size, age. 
Number of workers. 
Conveniences, or the lack of them. 
Time required for each ta^. 
(/) Ingenious, make conditions help, eliminate habits 
and poor conditions when possible. 



220 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

(g) Aim — health of self and family. 
Comfort of self and family. 
Appearance — clean, decent. 
Economy of strength, money, time. 
Programs for helpers: 

Must include consideration of: 
The Golden Rule. 
The human element. 
The number of working hours. 
The free time — (not broken into). 
Time spent subject to call is not rest or free time. 
Extra pay for extra work. 
54-58-60 hours week? 

The best way to find out what can be done is to try 
to do it in the time allowed. 

Lines of Travel should he considered: 
Maids, — 

Kitchen — sink, stove, store room, table, refriger- 
ator, pantry, utensils. 
Cellar — kindling, coal, wood, ashes. 
Laundry — tubs, wringer, hues, stove. 
Dining room — dishes, kitchen, sink. 
Family, — 

Bedrooms — closets, dresser, windows, bed. 
Living rooms — tables, chairs, ornaments, other 
rooms. 
Order of Work: 

Plan — with body in mind. 

Aim — gentle exercise. 

Dangers — too much exercise at a time, too severe 

exercise at a time. 
Position — spine erect, head up, neck against the 

back of the collar. 
Bend the body at the knees and hips — too much 



PROGRAM OF WORK 221 

forward bending is wrong — avoid stooping and 

holding the head forward. 
Shoulders — dropped going upstairs. 
Walk — change frequently, flat on the foot, the toes 

down first, on the toes backward and forward. 
Rest — frequently, close the eyes or look away, 

change work, don't stand when you can sit, 

don't sit when you can lie down, remove the 

shoes while resting, change shoes to rest your 

feet. 
Breathe deeply as often as possible. 
Avoid too long continued use of one set of muscles. 
Arrange sequence of processes to obtain sequence of 

exercise. 

Program Hints for Housekeepers 

F(yr Early Hours: 

Dust the dining room, air downstairs rooms, sweep 
the piazzas. 

After Breakfast: 

Sweep the dining room, arrange the bedrooms, 
dust the living rooms, clean the bath rooms, do 
the special work of the day. 

General Rules: 
Each member of the family should have a share in 

the house duties, no matter how shght. Upon 

its execution should depend the comfort, in some 

measure, of the family as a whole. 
Work done at night will not have to be repeated in 

the A.M. when time is crowded. 
The breakfast table may be set and covered, and the 

living rooms put in order and aired, the last thing 

at night. 



222 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Program Hints for Cook and Second Maid 

The following programs for cook and second maid 
are suggestive only. 

Individuals must substitute as needs require. 

cook's program 
58-60 Hours per Week 
Cooks and serves meals. 
Attends to left-over food. 
Responsible for cleanliness and order of: refrigerator, 

pantry, store rooms, basement stairs, kitchen, 

back porch, toilet. 
Time spent doing personal laundry should not be 

counted in the hours per week. 
May plan her work as she chooses, but must arrange 

definite days for each part of the cleaning. 
Waits on table when second maid is away. 
Alternates with second maid in answering doorbells 

evenings. 
Has one afternoon and evening free each week. 
Has every other Sunday afternoon and evening free. 

SUGGESTIVE PROGRAM FOR COOK's CLEANING 

Monday: 

Mop kitchen and laundry floors. 
Tuesday: 

Clean ice box. 

Put store room in order. 
Wednesday: 

Clean pantry and put it in order. 
Thursday: 

Clean back porch and toilet. 

Clean basement stairs. 



PROGRAM OF WORK 223 

Friday: 

Put ice box in order. 

Clean her own room. 
Saturday: 

Clean gas and coal ranges. 

Clean and put kitchen in perfect order. 
Sunday: 

Arrange to do only necessary work. 

All possible Sunday cooking to be done Saturday. 

Second Maid Program 

Responsible for waiting on table, care and order of 
dining room, living room, bedrooms, halls, bathrooms, 
table silver, china. 

Wash and iron table napkins and doilies. 

Answer doorbells and telephone, if the family is away. 

Prepare bedrooms for the night. 

Sweep front piazza and steps. 

Cook and serve meals when the cook is away. 

Alternate with the cook in the evening, answering 
doorbells. 



Breakfast at 7.30. 
Before Breakfast: 
Air hving rooms and put them in order. Dust pol- 
ished surfaces. 
Set table. 
Serve breakfast. 
Eat own breakfast. 
Note : In many households the maids prefer to 
eat their own meals before the family meal is 
served. When this is impossible the maids' 



224 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

meal time is adjusted to the convenience of the 

individual household. 
Clear table. 

Wash dishes and dish towels. 
Leave dining room and pantry in order. 
Make beds. 

Do necessary dusting of floors in bedrooms and halls. 
Put bathrooms in order. 
Dust living rooms. 
Do special work for the day (ironing — cleaning 

silver). 
12 o'clock set table for luncheon. 
12.30 eat own luncheon. 
1 P.M. serve luncheon. 

Have dishes done and everything in order by 2.30. 
From 2.30 to 3.30 resting time. 
From 3.30 to 5.30 answer bells. 
Prepare dining room for dinner. Eat own dinner. 
Serve dinner and clear away. 
Leave dining room and pantry in order. 
Prepare bedrooms for the night. 

Suggestive Program for Special Work for 
Housemaid 

Monday: 

Count and put up flat work for laundry. 

Thoroughly clean the bathroom. 

Wash doilies and napkins. 
Tuesday: 

Ironing. 



C'U/Zl'C'OU/U.l/. 

Clean the bedrooms (it may be necessary to divide 
the rooms and thoroughly clean half of them 



alternate weeks). 



PROGRAM OF WORK 225 

Thursday: 

Clean silver — afternoon out. 
Friday: 

Clean living rooms and halls. 
Saturday: 

Wash and iron necessary napkins and doilies. 

Clean pantry. 
Sunday: 

Do only necessary work. 

Problems for Housekeeper 

The paths you take in your work or occupation of 
a room are lines of travel. 

I. Sketch your kitchen and dot in the lines of 

travel. 
Could they be shortened? 

Without expense? 

With expense? 

Would time and strength be saved? 

Do they cross? 

Can that be avoided? 

Consider speed in work and convenience. 
II. Sketch your bedroom and living room. 
Dot in the lines of travel. 
Do they cross? 
Are they unnecessarily long? 
Will moving furniture shorten them? 

For the occupants? 

For the caretakers? 
Consider — closets, clothing, doors, chairs, bed, 

and dresser, tables, hghts, windows. 
Consider, — convenience, beauty of arrangement, 

restfulness of appearance. 



CHAPTER XX 
HOUSEHOLD PESTS 

Flies 

Danger: 

Carriers of disease germs and filth. 

They carry filth and disease germs on their feet, 

legs, and bodies, and in their digestive track and 

leave them on food. 
Breeding Places: 
Garbage pails, barn cellars, open privies, manure 

heaps, pig pens, decaying fruit. 
Prevention: 
Elimination or regular disinfection of all possible 

breeding places (one gallon water to 2 lb. iron 

sulfate or 2| lb. dry sulfate sufficient amount 

to disinfect the manure from one horse). 
Careful screening of all houses and stables. 
The storage of manure in dark well-screened rooms 

or tight cement pits. 
The spreading thin of all manure when taken from 

these pits. 
Close screening or inclosing of all open privies (see 

Farmers' Bulletin #463). 
Frequent emptying of garbage cans. 
Complete burial or burning of all decaying animal or 

vegetable matter. 
Remedies: 

Drive from a dark room toward a bright light, — 

"Hodge" or other traps, well baited with bread 

and milk or banana. 



HOUSEHOLD PESTS 227 

Insect powder: 
Pyrethum, — hard to get fresh. 
Buhach, — fresher and more effective. Sprinkle 

freely all about the room at night, close the 

room tight, and in the morning sweep up the 

stupefied flies and burn them. 
Fly Paper: 
Tanglefoot or poison paper effective — the latter 

dangerous if children or pets can reach it. 
Formaldehyde: 
One tablespoon of 40% solution in one pint of 

milk and water with a piece of bread. 
Expose in a shallow dish near a single ray of Ught 

coming into an otherwise dark room. There 

must be no other food about. 

Special Care needed in the House: 
Protect food by screens, covers, boxes, etc. 
Thoroughly screen or cover all garbage until it can 

be burned, buried, or otherwise safely disposed of. 
Thoroughly disinfect or burn excretions of patients 

suffering from typhoid fever or other intestinal 

disease. In such cases ask for and carry out special 

instructions from the Board of Health or Physician. 
Keep flies from the kitchen and dining room; they 

contaminate the food. 
Keep flies from the living rooms and bedrooms; they 

are annoying and disagreeable. 
Keep flies from the sick room; they are annoying and 

may spread contagion. 

Mosquitoes 

Dangers: 

Carriers of malaria and other diseases. 
Source of discomfort. 



228 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Breeding Places: 

Common mosquitoes: 
Water in traps or toilet utensils which are not 

used frequently. 
Roadside pools, sewers, rain barrels, tin cans, 
any receptacle which contains stagnant water. 
Malarial mosquitoes : 
Edges of creeks, brooks, ditches. 

Prevention: 

Drain or fill all pools of stagnant water. 

Cover the sm-faces of water which cannot be 

drained with oil or kerosene. 
Where pools cannot be drained or oiled, stock 

with fish. 
Empty all buckets or barrels frequently. 
Screen all water barrels with fine mosquito-proof 

wire netting. 
See that no empty cans or boxes are allowed to 

stand open to catch water in yards or dumping 

places. 

Remedies: 

Use a mixture of two ounces oil of citronella, one 
ounce of oil of cedar, one ounce spirits of camphor, 
on the hands, face, and ankles. Mix the liquid 
with white vaseline and it will be effective longer. 

Catch mosquitoes on the screens in early morning 
or on the ceiling at night. 

A tin cup fastened to a stick, filled with hot soapy 
water and held directly under mosquitoes on the 
ceiling, will stupefy them and they will drop into 
the water. 

Screen house and cellar windows and doors; use very 
fine wire and cover the whole window if possible. 

Adjustable screens are nearly useless for mosquitoes. 



HOUSEHOLD PESTS 229 

If all other means of prevention fail, sleep under 

netting. 
If in a ''malarial section" screen the porches. 
Read Rules for Prevention of Yellow Fever (Public 

Health and Marine Hospital Service). 

Moths 

Destroy woolen, silk, or cotton materials according 
to kind of moths. 

Source: 
Eggs are laid on material which serves as food to 
larvae when they hatch. 

Prevention: 

Clean perfectly, brush, and hang in the sun and 
air — to be sure there are no eggs or larvae on the 
clothing. 
Store in sealed boxes or moth-proof bags or seal in 

newspaper and tie in cotton bags. 
Cold storage effective but expensive. 

Facts to remember: 

Strong odors of camphor, cedar, moth balls, etc., 

do not kill moth eggs or larvae. 
If eggs are shut in with clothing moths will hatch 

and eat the material. 
Garments worn frequently are less hable to be 

eaten than those left undisturbed in a dark 

closet. 
Sunshine and air are the best protection against 

moths. 
Spraying with benzene will kill any eggs or larvae. 
Carbon bisulphide or gasolene in an uncorked bottle 

shut into a tight box or trunk is protection for 

clothing in the trunk. 



230 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Buffalo Bugs 

Dangers: 
The injury is from the larvae, which are brown and 
hairy, grow rapidly, eat voraciously, and destroy 
much material. 

Prevention: 
Is difficult if they are once m a house. 

Spray walls and cracks with gasolene, wash floors 
and shelves with gasolene or kerosene (both are in- 
flammable — beware of flame). 

Remedies: 

Care for and protect clothing as from moths. 

EUminate carpets as far as possible. 

Lay pieces of soft wool on closet floors and trap the 

larvae. Examine the cloths every day. 
Buffalo bugs are more hkely than moths to eat 

clothing which is in use. 
Fumigation with hydrocyanic gas is effectual — 

but the gas is a deadly poison. 
Such fumigation should only be undertaken by a very 

careful painstaking person who understands the 

danger. 
Read Hydrocyanic Gas against Household Pests, — 

circular 163, Bureau of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of 

Agriculture. 

Fleas 

Two kinds (troublesome to the housewife): cat and 

dog fleas and the human flea. 
Dangers: 

Carriers of disease, source of extreme discomfort. 
Sources: 

House pets — unclean conditions. 



HOUSEHOLD PESTS 231 

Prevention: 

Cleanliness, special care of pets. 
Remedies: 

Spray floors and rugs with benzine or gasolene. 

(Do not allow any flame in the room.) 

In bad cases remove floor coverings and wash the 
floors and rugs with strong soapsuds. 

Ants 

Danger: 

Destruction of food. 
Source: 

Nests in decajdng wood or in earth near the house; 
tracks to the house may often be found. 
Gathering Places: 

Sweet foods and fats, greasy pans and dishes. 
Prevention in the House: 

Perfectly tight floors and base-boards, fine screens in 
the windows, destruction of nests when possible. 

Remedies: 
Strong oil of sassafras around each dish of food 

or at every crack where they can come in. 
Place food on a table and stand the legs of the 

table in jars of water covered with oil; this is 

efficient for small ants. Giant ants will manage 

to cross it. 
Trap the ants in a sponge soaked in sweetened 

water or by a rind of pork or bacon, and pour 

boiling water over them. 
Kerosene oil in the crack where they enter will 

drive them away. 
Tartar emetic in sirup, exposed in small dishes 

where the ants are eating, is often effective. 



232 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Strong powdered cloves will often drive them 
away. 

Notes: 

The tiny red ants or emmets are frequently 
swarming all over food, tables and utensils before 
they are discovered. 

They travel in procession and their point of entrance 
can usually be traced. 

Wash the shelves where they are found with 
scalding water and wipe with a kerosene cloth 
— repeat frequently. 

The giant black ants and the smaller black ants 
may be driven away by the use of strong oil 
of sassafras or fresh ground cloves; but there 
is no remedy absolutely effective if the giant 
black ants are persistent. 

These large ants will carry away their dead; they 
will go up the wall and climb over on the 
under side of a shelf and drop on to food which 
has been protected by rings of sassafras or 
poison. They will swim across dishes of water 
to reach food. They will follow food which 
has been moved. 

Eternal vigilance is the only safeguard. 

Bed Bugs 

Dangers: 
Annoyance, possible disease carriers. 

Source: 
Chance contact in street car, travel, clothing, bot- 
tom of baskets or bags. 
May be part of an army traveling from house to 
house. 



HOUSEHOLD PESTS 233 

Breeding Places: 

Dark, dusty cracks. 
Prevention: 

Watch packages and clothing after travel. 

If one is found, look carefully for others and repeat 

the examination at intervals of two days until 

convinced they are gone. 
Remedies: 
Kerosene or gasolene (be sure there is no flame 

about), spray into cracks and wipe all surfaces. 

Repeat several times, with intervals between. 
Boiling water is effective when it will not injure 

the furniture. 
Corrosive subhmate solution is good, but is poison; 

be careful not to leave either tablets or solution 

where children or pets will get them; bottles 

should be plainly marked and put away. 

Cockroaches 

Danger: 

Destruction of food, production of filth. 
Source: 

Dampness, filth. 
Breeding Places: 

Plumbing, damp cellars or closets. 
Prevention: 

Keep shelves and pipes and cracks dry and clean. 
Remedies: 

Sprinkle borax or insect powder freely wherever 
they come. Replace borax whenever it is washed 
or brushed up. No remedy is very successful as 
long as there is dampness. Stop up cracks; re- 
place damp decaying wood with dry wood and 
fresh paint. 



234 MARKETING AND HOUSEWORK MANUAL 

Rats and Mice 

Dangers: 

Destruction of food and clothing, disease carriers. 
Source: 

Walls, cellars, holes, sewers. 
Prevention: 

Stop up all holes and cracks with broken glass and 

cover with sheet metal. 
Cover all food, have no crumbs of food about. 
Remedy: 

Use a trap, set with cheese, near the wall and 
close to the hole of entrance. Traps are useless 
if there is other food obtainable. A good cat is 
usually the best trap. 
Use poison if there are no pets about. 

Molds 

Dangers: 

Spoil food, disfigure fabrics, cause musty odor, are 
indicative of dampness. 
Source: 

The ah*. 
Breed: 

In dampness. 
Prevention: 

Good drainage, dry air in the house and cellar, 
dry refrigerator. 
Remedies: 

Keep foods cold, covered, and dry. 
Scald storage utensils and dry in the sun. 
Fresh air and sunshine faihng, start fires long enough 
to dry the air in the house and prevent the growth 
of molds on fabrics, 



HOUSEHOLD PESTS 235 

Weevils, Moths, Beetles, Wonns 

Dangers: 
Destruction of cereals. 

Source {in house): 

Cereals already infected when purchased, old or im- 
perfectly cleaned storage boxes. 

Prevention: 

Careful watching and quick removal of any in- 
fected cereals. Tightly closed boxes or jars for 
storage of cereals. 

Remedies: 

The careful cleaning of all storage utensils. 

Throwing away of infected material. 

Large amounts of flour may be fumigated with 

carbon bisulphide. 
This gas is inflammable; no lights should be used near 

the room until the gas has disappeared. 



INDEX 



Adulterations, 62 
Agate ware, care of, 142 
Aluminum, care of, 142 

Ball cocks, 212 
Bath room, care of, 174 

fixtures, to clean, 174-175 
Bed making, 170 
Bedrooms, daily care of, 169 
Beef, points of choice, 12 
Beef charts, 13-17 
Books, dusting, 190 
Brass, to clean, 166 
Breakfast dishes, suggested, 94 
Brooms, 184 

Care op bath room, 174 

cellar, 115 

cleaning utensils, 192 

dining room, 152 

kerosene stoves, 133 

kitchen, 127 

linoleum, 145, 187 

living room, 160 

refrigerator, 138 

sinks, 137 
Carpet sweepers, 183 
Cellar, care of, 115 
Chamber work, 167 

problems, 173 
China closet, 178 
Cleaning, bath room, 174 

bath room fixtures, 174 

brass, 165 

copper, 165 

enameled wood, 194 

finished wood, 194 



floors, 185 

furniture, 164 

general, 181 

general rules for, 191 

materials for, 191 

methods of, 193 

natural wood, 196 

paint, 196 

shellac or varnish, 195 

stained wood, 195 

unfinished wood, 193 

utensils, care of, 192 

wax surfaces, 197 

woods, 193-197 
Closed house. See House. 
Closing of house, actual, 203 
Clothes, closets, 177-178 

storage, 178 
Coal range, choice of, 127 

construction and parts, 128 

facts to remember, 129 
Cooking utensils, 141 

care of, 141 
Cook's program, 222 
Copper and brass, to clean, 165 

Dat's pood, should provide, 100 
Desserts, 91-93 

luncheon, 96 
Dining room, care of, 152 

pantry, care of, 146 
Dinner meats, 86-87 

sources of, 181 
Dirt, methods for removal of^ 191 
Dish towels, 151 
Dish washing, 147 
Dust, source of, 187 



238 



INDEX 



Dusting, aim in, 187 
books, 190 . 
floors, 189 
furniture, 190 
methods for, 189 
pictures, 191 
purpose of, 188 
utensils for, 189 

Electric lighting, to estimate 

COST OF, 216 
to reduce cost of, 216 
meter, to read, 215 
Enameled wood, cleaning, 194 

Faucets, dripping, 212 
Finished wood, cleaning, 194 
Fire, to lay a fire place, 160 
Fireless cookers, care of, 135 

construction of, 134 

method of use of, 135 

purpose of, 134 

use of, 134 
Fish, general rules for purchase 

of, 32 

points of choice of, 32 
Fish chart, 33-41 
FUes, 226 
Floors, care of utensils, 186 

cleaning, 185 

dusting, 189 

kitchen, 145 

sweeping, 184 

to oil or wax, 186 
Food, the day's, 100 
Food inventory, to take a, 107- 

112 
Food storage closet, 176 
Foods, grouped to show uses, 

102-106 
Fruit, general rules for purchase 

of, 42 
Fruit chart, 43-48 
Furniture, to clean, 164 

dusting, 190 



to polish, 165 
to repair, 210 

Garnishes, 87-89 

Gas meter, to read a, 214 

Gas range, choice of, 130 
construction of, 130 
use and care of, 131 

General cleaning, 181 

General rules for cleaning, 191 
marketing, 5 

Groceries, general rules for pur- 
chase, 62 

Grocery Chart, 65-78 

Grouping foods to show uses, 
102-106 

Guest room, 172 

House, dangers to a closed, 
199 

birds, 200 

burglars, 201 

dampness, 200 

fire, 199 

insects and vermin, 201 

roof leaks, 200 

squirrels, 200 

waste pipes, 200 

water supply, 199 
House, inspection, 205 

buying, before, 205 

renting, before, 205 

seasonal, 206 
House repairs, fall, 206 

spring, 206 

records of, 207 
House, special care to closed, 201, 
203 

books, 201 

brasses, 202 

carpets, 202 

chandeUer, 201 

fabrics, 202 

furniture, 201 

furs, 202 



INDEX 



239 



glassware, 201 
heater, 201 
iron fixtures, 202 
mattresses, 203 
pictures, 201 
pillows, 203 
rugs, 202 



House, to close, 203 

to open, 204 

to open and close a, 199 
Housekeepers' program, 219 
Housemaids' closet, 176 

Insurance, 204 

Inventory of house furnishings, 

204 
Ironware, care of, 142 

Kerosene stoves, use and care 

OP, 133 
Keys, 204 
Kitchen, care of, 127 

closets, 144 

dishes and utensils, 141 

floors, 145 

iron, 136 

porcelain, 136 

sinks, choice of, 135 
slate, 136 
soapstone, 136 

tables, shelves, and floors, 144 

iise and care of, 137 

waste, disposal of, 140 

Lamb, points op choice, 18 
Lamb chart, 19-21 
Laimdry, equipment, movable, 
117 

equipment, stationary, 117 

hst of equipment and mate- 
rials, 119 

colored clothes, 123 

flannels, 124 

ironing, 122 



methods, 120 

silks, 123 

sorting clothes, 120 

stockings, 124 

to blue clothes, 121 

to clean the, 120, 135 

to dry clothes, 121 

to starch clothes, 121 

white clothes, 121 
Left-overs, suggested use of, 93-94 
Linen closets, 177 
Lines of travel, 220-225 
Linoleum, care of, 145, 187 
Living room, daily care of, 160 

to clean, 161 
Luncheon desserts, 96 

dishes, suggested, 94-96 

Marble, to clean, 198 
Marketing, bujdng, 6-8 

general rules for, 5-6 

methods of, 6 
Marketing charts 

description of, 9 

beef, forequarter, 13-14 
hind quarter, 15-16 
other cuts, 17 

lamb, 19-20 

mutton, 19-20 

veal, 22-23 

pork, 25-26 

poultry, 28-31 

fish, 33-41 

fruit, 43-48 

vegetable, 51-61 

groceries, 65-78 
Materials for cleaning, 191 
Meat, selection of, 10 
Meats, dinner, 86-87 
Medicine closet, 179 
Menu and order sheets, 97-99 
Menu making, 80 

chart plan, 85-96 

ring and card plan, 82-85 
Menu charts, 86-96 



240 



INDEX 



Meter, gas, 214, electric, 215 
Methods of cleaning, 193 

marketing, 6 
Mice, 234 
Milk, directions for purchase of, 

79 
Milk bottles, care of, 144 
Mirrors, to clean, 198 
Molds, 234 
Mops, dry, 184 
Mosquitoes, 227 
Moths, 229-235 
Mutton, points of choice, 18 
Mutton Chart, 19-21 

Natural wood, cleaning, 196 

Opening a house, 204 
Order Sheets, 97-99 

Paint, cleaning, 196 

care of dining room, 146 
Pantry, equipment, 146 
Pests, ants, 231 

bed bugs, 232 

beetles, 235 

buffalo bugs, 230 

cockroaches, 233 

fleas, 230 
Picture glass, to clean, 198 
Pictures, dusting, 191 
Plumbing, personal responsibil- 
ity for, 176 

repairs, 211 

troubles and remedies, 211 
Pork, points of choice, 24 
Pork chart, 25-26 
Poultry, general rules for selec- 
tion of, 27 
Poultry chart, 28-30 
Preservatives, 62 
Problems for housekeeper, 219 

daily, 219 
Program, for cook, 222 

helpers, 220 



housekeepers, 219 
second maid, 223 
work, 223 
weekly, 219 

Quantities, purchasing in, 63 

Range, gas, 130-131 

coal, 127-129 
Rats and mice, 234 
Reading lamp, to care for a, 161 
Refrigerator, choice of, 137 

to clean, 139 

use and care of, 138 
ReUshes, 87-89 
Repairs, seasonal, 206-207 

to house, 208 
Rules for buying, 6-8 

Second maid's program, 223 

Sewing closet, 179 

SheUac, cleaning, 195 

Silver, to clean, 150 

Sinks, kitchen, 135-137 

Small repairs, house and furniture, 

208 
Soups, suggested use of, 93 
Special care in closed house, 201 
Stained wood, cleaning, 195 
Steel knives, care of, 144 
Storage closets, 176 
Stoves, coal, 127-129 

gas, 130-131 

kerosene, 133 
Sweeping, carpet, 185 

dangers from, 185 

floor, 184 

hnoleum, 184 

methods of, 184 

need for, 181 

utensils for, 182 

Table Linen, 146 
service, 155-159 
setting, 152-155 



INDEX 



241 



Tin ware, care of, 142 
ToUet, 174 
Towels, dish, 151 

Unfinished wood, 193 
Utensils for cleaning, use and care 
of, 191 

cooking, 141 

sweeping, use and care of, 182 

Vacuum cleaners, 183 
to clean with a, 162 
Varnish, cleaning, 195 
Varnished floors, 145 
Veal, points of choice of, 21 
Veal chart, 22-23 
Vegetable chart, 51-61 



Vegetables, general rules for pur- 
chase of, 49 
starchy, 89-90 
succulent, 89-90 

Washing, dish, 147 
Waste, disposal of kitchen, 140 
Water hammer, 211 
Waxed floor, care of, 185 
Wax surfaces, cleaning, 197 
Weevils, 235 
Windows, to clean, 196 
Wooden ware, care of, 143 
Woods, to clean, 193-197 
Worms, 235 

Zinc covered tables, 144 



DEG ■? "^ i^i^' 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 




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